A launch of an entirely new watch line is something that is not unusual in the watch business.  Cartier has done the Driver, Cle, and others in just less than five years.  Even Apple (currently one of the largest watchmakers in the world) has launched two new lines in the same amount of time; the Apple Watch and the very recent Apple HomePod.  But when one of the Big Three firms (Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin) launch an entirely new line, that’s usually something worth taking notice.  

Vacheron Constantin’s FIFTYSIX model line is its latest creation, supposedly inspired by a watch from their history, the FIFTYSIX is a safe design that will be well received by many.  It’s also a strong launch; three different movements, all in steel or gold cases, for a total of six different variants show that this is not a half hearted launch.  Vacheron Constantin also has more models planned for roll-out in the FIFTYSIX line, one can be almost certain.  However, this article will focus primarily on the launch of the FIFTYSIX date model in steel; the simplest and least expensive version of the new FIFTYSIX and destined to be the volume leader of the new model line and my choice for Best Value Men’s Watch and Most Impactful Novelty of SIHH 2018. 

A lot of famous chefs are starting a trend; they have their high-end restaurant featuring the best cuts of meat and exotic ingredients; but then they have a more accessible restaurant usually nearby utilizing less exotic ingredients but still cooking of a very high standard.  In the San Francisco Bay Area, Alice Water’s Chez Panisse has the Chez Panisse Café; in New York City, Jean Georges has the restaurant bearing his name and “Nougatine by Jean Georges” as the slightly more casual dining option.  I recently dined at Nougatine during Restaurant Week NYC, where I had an excellent meal.  Restaurant Week NYC is all about introducing fine dining restaurants to individuals who haven’t often experienced fine dining.  There’s generally a prix fix menu that is lower in price, reflecting the restaurant’s classic dishes and giving an incentive for those who are less familiar with haute cuisine to give it a try!     

DESIGN

The watch is inspired by a watch Vacheron Constantin made in their history, the reference 6073 that was launched in 1956. 

An original advertisement for the FIFTYSIX. 




The original FIFTYSIX.  Notice the lugs protrude from the side of the case and are shaped like the Maltese Cross.  

The watch features a handsome and safe design that is a universal crowd pleaser.  Starting from the generous 40MM case, it’s a flavorful combination that’s truly abundant in meaningful flavor, not just a salt forward dish that’s lacking in substance.  At a proportionate 9.6mm thick, it will fit under the barrel cuff of all but the slimmest fitting of shirts. 

Big crown. 

Moving on to the dial, the best question anyone can ask of any potential purchase is what is the weakness of the new FIFTYSIX with date?  The Achilles’ heel in this case (no pun intended) is the date window is a little small, and to my eyes, it’s two millimeters too centrally placed courtesy of the smaller movement.  But minor faults, easily forgiven at this pricepoint.  The dial of the steel model is treated with white gold applied numerals and white gold hands.  The superlative dial construction is matched with a masculine grey opaline center and a grey sunburst outer diameter. 

The strap is a dark grey alligator strap.  And most importantly, the strap is surprisingly mounted on a steel folding clasp!  Definitely making this piece a practical watch for daily wear! 

I'm so pleased the FIFTYSIX in steel comes with a folding buckle. 

My first course arrives, it’s a sashimi dish at Nougatine by Jean George’s that’s drizzled in olive oil and has a hint of jalapeno; almost a Japanese and Latin mix?  It’s tasty, but the fish lacks flavor. 

MOVEMENT

The automatically wound Caliber 1326 movement of this watch is something that’s unusual for Vacheron Constantin.  It’s not entirely a true Vacheron Constantin movement, it’s a Richemont Group movement that’s been adapted and highly finished to Vacheron Constantin’s lofty standards.  While it doesn’t have the Geneva Seal that’s commonplace on most of Vacheron Constantin’s movements, it is beautifully finished and accentuated with a 22K solid gold winding rotor with a skeletonized Maltese Cross.  It’s a small movement, only 26.2mm in diameter, probably intended for a 36-37mm case.  But upon first glance, the 1326 is a nice piece of kit that’s worth admiring through the sapphire case back. 

The 1326 movement does not have a Geneva Seal, but it is nicely finished.  It has a flat balance spring on a standard annular balance wheel. 

Accuracy predictions are good; it’s got a high beat 4HZ 28,800 VPH balance wheel, smaller balance wheel.  It’s only got a 48 hour power reserve; if you put the watch down after work on Friday evening, it will unfortunately stop before you resume work on Monday morning. 

The movement is well finished and endowed with a 22K solid gold rotor that has a skeletonized Maltese Cross. 

26.2 mm (11 ¼ ’’’) diameter, 4.3 mm thick

Approximately 48 hours of power reserve

4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)

142 components

25 jewels

The main course at Nougatine has arrived.  It doesn’t disappoint, it’s a filet of fish that stretches from one end of the dish to the other.  Seared to perfection, and decorated with pumpkin seeds and a hint of spice.  The fish is served on a bed of spaghetti squash and a delicate broth is poured into the dish for added flavor and warmth with minimal salt. 

IMPACT

With a price tag of under 12,000 Swiss Francs, the Vacheron Constantin distribution, this watch really brings the world of haute horlogerie to a pricepoint that is accessible for a wide population.  The impact of this watch is truly going to be unprecedented.  The value proposition is incredible.  Other news agencies, like CNN, have already been suggesting this watch will be especially appealing to Millennials, but the FIFTYSIX is truly aimed at watch lovers of all demographics.  Personally, I hope the Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX will be a “gateway drug” for hundreds of new Millennial horology addicts; for it is their appreciation of this art form that will keep the world of haute horlogerie alive for the next generation. 

Modern, cool, ready for anything attitude. 

As I’m finishing the dessert of poached pear at this year’s Nougatine by Jean George’s NYC Restaurant Week 2018 menu, I can quickly reflect upon the meal with very positive remarks.  All the dishes were well flavored, none were salt forward, especially inventive with the use of hot spice in the appetizer and main courses, and just a great meal with the great company of two tremendously amazing watch collectors, one a Jean Georges regular.  I look around and I do see a good mix of clientele of different generations, hopefully some of them are experiencing haute cuisine for the first time and are finding it a successful introduction. 

Likewise, the FIFTYSIX Self-winding Date model will be a great introduction to the world of haute horlogerie for many individuals! 

Many thanks to Vacheron Constantin team for taking the time to explain this watch to me.  I am incredibly pleased that Vacheron Constantin, a storied brand with over 250 years of uninterrupted history, took it upon themselves to create a piece that will impact and inspire the lives of countless individuals whom will be introduced to high horology for the first time.  It’s surely a watch designed to disrupt the luxury timepiece market, and one that makes me personally rethink the value proposition of many other timepieces on the market.