Baselworld 2013: Maîtres du Temps Chapter Three
Ornatus-Mundi
Les Maîtres du Temps (MdT) is a brand I put not much attention to when I first heard of them in 2008. What MdT's CEO and founder Steven Holtzman had in mind was:
"developing teams of outstanding watchmakers who would work together to develop and craft incredible timepieces. Each master watchmaker brings his own ideas, his own style, and his own approach, and by providing the opportunity for them to work together, Maîtres du Temps harnesses and maximizes their incredible talent." [MdT website]
The first two products of this concept were Chapter One (left; a collaboration between Christophe Claret, Peter Speake-Marin and Roger Dubuis) followed by the Chapter Two (centre; Peter Speake-Marin and Daniel Roth):
All of the above a highly complicated timepieces that share one common denominator: the use of a roller to display those calendar functions that indicate longer timeframes, like moonphase or weekday.
But if you look at the watches above you may understand why I had a problem with this new collective: Read the names of the watchmakers and then try to identify their respective contribution to the final piece. Its difficult! In fact have to admit that the watches looked like someone is trying to monetise on famous watchmakers' names. But you need to discuss intensively with Mr Holtzman in order to find out. I did and I was quite surprised what happened behind the scenes. Roger Dubuis for example was instrumental to get the retrograde date and GMT hands, respectively, working perfectly.
Finally, with this year's advent of - and here I come to the topic of this article - Chapter Three (top right; devised by Kari Voutilainen and Andreas Strehler) the fog finally vanishes and I saw much clearer! Chapter Three is devised as a new solution in the eternal struggle between function and aesthetics: The appeal of a watch in terms of complications is often in an inverse relation to its design appeal!
Upon the first view already one could attest to the successful implementation of the latter objective:
Chapter Three is a really elegant timepiece with a contemporary but not excessive diameter of 42mm. The shaped pusher is used to de-synchronise the second timezone from the main clockwork if it is to set for a different location. The dial showcases a 'balanced asymmetry' (if I may use this term) that is nicely accentuated with different finishes:
But its real secret lies literally under the hood:
Below the 12 o'clock panel a day/night indication on a roller is hidden:
The roller btw is engraved and subsequently hand-painted:
At 6 o'clock a second timezone roller magically appears:
As romantic complement we'll find a moonphase at 4:30, tastefully implemented and not too prominently placed:
At 6 o'clock a second timezone roller magically appears:
As romantic complement we'll find a moonphase at 4:30, tastefully implemented and not too prominently placed:
Opening and closing of the two panels is controlled by the pusher located coaxially in the crown.
The whole mechanism for the second timezone has been devised by Andreas Strehler and is of fascinating sophistication: The panels first lower and then slide below the dial to reveal the respective roller underneath. The process is well controlled and shows its finesse even in the precise and confident pusher feel. But this is not all: In order to allow for a sufficiently large second timezone display Mr Strehler employed two adjacent rollers, one for 1-6h and a second one for 7-12h. They automatically slide sideways according to the respective time setting:
Its worth paying close attention to magic in this video:
The main movement (hand wound, 36h power reserve) has been constructed and finished by Kari Voutilainen:
Its of almost square construction (will this be employed later in a shaped watch?) and shows excellent finishing that is very (but not quite) close to Kari's own movements.
All finishing (Geneva stripes, bevelling, and anglage) is very well done and shows Kari's magic input. The shapes to be finished however are fewer and of simpler design than in Kari' own timepieces. Note the Straumann balance spring with Breguet overcoil:
Also in the dial layout and execution I find a lot of 'Kari-DNA', particularly if you look at the permanent seconds hand:
However, if you compare it to one of his own pieces the difference is quite visible. Kari uses stronger contrasts in terms of different guillochage techniques and dial levels. Furthermore, I find his hands to be more elaborated in contruction and finishing:
On the wrist it really shines and is just fine even if worn with business attire.
Despite a movement thickness of 8.2 mm (and an accordingly well-dimensioned case) it is not obtrusive at all.
Bottom line: MdT came very close to a squared circle with this timepiece. Its a complicated watch that does not (really) look like that. Like a well-mannered lady it knows when to take the centre of the stage and when to retreat. It has (lots) of personality on its own but clearly shows its ancestry. Its parents are famous (to us) and have bequeathed a well-defined amount of traits to give the watch its own identity and leave lots of room for themselves. On the wrist it really shines and is just fine even if worn with business attire.
Despite a movement thickness of 8.2 mm (and an accordingly well-dimensioned case) it is not obtrusive at all.
In terms of functionality I think the solution to the problem is indeed a very clever one. It avoids unnecessary clutter and improves readability at the same time, thus solving two problems with one solution. A permanently displayed second timezone is rarely needed but if so a simply pusher actuation will get you there. If not, you carry an unassuming and elegant timepiece.
If I were to offer a critical word I would propose a re-design of the pusher at 9 o'clock. It looks too much like a minute repeater lever, and this 'lookalike' is absolutely not necessary for such a timepiece. Furthermore, I would wish the roman numerals had a bit more 'life' in them. But that's all.
As skeptical I might have been towards such 'marriage' concepts I have to confess that I am (quite a bit) taken by this watch. This says a lot about the watchmaking sensitiveness of Mr Holtzman.
In fact, I urge anybody to seize the opportunity to engage in horological conversations with him. His passion is intoxicating and does not need loud extroversion.
Cheers,
Magnus
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-08-05 23:51:37 This message has been edited by DonCorson on 2013-08-16 06:28:22
Comments:
doubleup August 5th, 2013-10:59
My favorite Chapter yet. It is amazing ... .. on these collaborations, Maitres or HW, Where you can see the DNA from the partnership. The dial on this is all Kari, from the minute markers to the overall look of the dial. I see Kari fans being all over this. Great post, nice work
AnthonyTsai August 5th, 2013-17:46
I never really liked the first 2 MdT chapters but this Chapter 3 is great I'm glad they finally used a round case too. I LOVE the opening and closing of the 2 panels at 12 and 6 o'clock. Awesome! - AT
Greg D August 7th, 2013-00:37
thanks Magnus I also didn't like the look of the previous watches - but this looks great. And great to hear what Andreas is up to - recall reading here many years ago about his pocket watch where the hour and minute hands turned into date and month when you pressed som...
bigdave August 7th, 2013-04:55
Too Little for Too Much I apologize up front for being contrarian, but I much prefer Chapter Two. There, the rollers, in addition to their "wow" factor, offer big readouts and easy correction, which make the watch a real pleasure to handle. I do not own it, but I came very close...
WHL August 10th, 2013-08:52
Chapter Two is my favorite as well... Which probably has something to do with my fondness for Daniel Roth, but then the layout is so clean and interesting. Bill ...
ling5hk August 10th, 2013-04:55
Mr. Holtzman is indeed a very approachable and passionate man. I prefer this Chapter Three over the two (2) previous watches. In terms of its size, case, function, dial and movement, it is more acceptable to me. Even though Chapter Three comes with Kari's contribution, I am of the view that the finishing of the movem...
Ornatus-Mundi August 11th, 2013-10:01
Could you elaborate more on the finishing? Thanks!
KIH August 12th, 2013-18:26
Thank you for the reprot and video... ... really tempting!!!! Any expected MSRP price info? You can always PM me, of course.... Great looking watch! Ken
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