Geneva 2013: De Bethune, opus magnum part 1
Ornatus-Mundi
Visiting De Bethune is for us, Oliver and Magnus, always like visiting a toy store when we were kids. So much tempting timepieces to see, so many interesting developments both in terms of technology and design.
What De Bethune achieved in its 11 years of existence is nothing short of admirable. They managed to develop their very own aesthetic and technology language. The former is very much rooted in renaissance whereas the latter in enlightenment, so it seems. So full, thrilling and universal is the history of developments from La Chaux l'Auberson.
The advances have been achieved in a well-orchestrated manner, starting with the development of a design language that is still recognisable today (how's that for 'classic'?). For example, the trademark ogival lugs which debuted in the original pieces (DB1, DB2) can be found in any De Bethune wristwatch produced to far (even pretty abstracted in the Dream Watches). Here a DB1 monopusher chronograph:
The presentation in 2004 of the instantaneous perpetual calendar watch DB15 marked a two-pronged turning point for the manufacture: A change in design paradigms and a technical milestone:
1.) Design Paradigms:
With this watch De Bethune began to explore the third dimension on its watch dials: For the first time a masterfully conceptualised landscape of plains, atolls and tiny recesses brought additional thrill and suspense to the already beautifully crafted dials. This was clearly a consequence of the dial-making capabilities acquired by the manufacture:
2.) Technical Milestone:
The second change the DB15 brought about was a technical one: For the first time De Bethune mastered all necessary disciplines to produce its first in-house calibre (DB2004) entirely developed & manufactured by the firm.
This movement, with its heart-shaped main bridge, was a milestone because it not only offered a unique design and a long power reserve, it proved flexible enough to incorporate all the radical technical innovations De Bethune's technical genius Denis Flageollet devised. These include:
- the heart-shaped movement blueprint
- unconventional escapements incorporating novel material (silicium, titanium, palladium, platinum)
- multi-parachute shock absorber systems
- spherical moonphase indications
We'd like to delve a bit deeper into the progress made in terms of balances and hairsprings. The core of the technology lies in a proprietary flat two-element hairspring that combines the advantages of a Breguet hairspring (equally free "breathing" of the hairspring) with those of a flat one (flatter, avoids problems introduced in the bending process of the an overcoil, resulting in internal disturbances of the sensitive spring). In addition, its 20% lighter than conventional balance springs.
The second crucial element comes from intensive research in balance wheel design. Notably, De Bethune dispensed with the conventional ring-on-spokes balance and replaced it with those of totally unique shapes (cross- or y- shaped open balances) resp. round ones with novel materials and production technologies. The aim was to produce isochronic oscillating systems with an ideal inertia-mass ratio ("the lightest balance with the relatively highest inertia") using ultra-light materials for the central part, e.g. silicium (2.65 g/cm3 ) or titanium (4.49g/cm3), and increasing its inertia by outside weights made in platinum (density 21.45g/cm3).
The silicium parts are produced in particle accelerators and are practically adjustment-free.
We always eagerly anticipated the inspection of any De Bethune piece in the previous years, it was always thrilling to see where the escapement technology has led them. It was almost guaranteed that you could spot something totally new even it you viewed the same watch model - so rapid was the pace of progress there! As of 2008, the technology seems mature (image taken from an article prepared by SJX):
It is thus no overstatement to consider the DB15 the ancestor for all current De Bethune watches. without this watch none of the subsequent collections would be possible.
A second cornerstone is the DBS which debuted the open-worked dial showcasing the movement bridge and also introduced the floating lug concept of many of the more avant-garde De Bethune watches.
In the following image we attempted to illustrate the 'bloodline' of the current De Bethune watches by putting the - according to our understanding - landmark pieces into relation:
With this background we think we are well prepared for the presentation of the novelties 2013!
Due to the wealth of images - this comes in two parts, part 1 (DB16 and DB25) today, the rest including our conclusions later this week!
Magnus & Oliver
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-02-24 12:35:27
Comments:
Ornatus-Mundi February 24th, 2013-12:25
The DB16 DB16 Tourbillon Regulator This watch has caused some frowning among watch connoisseurs - a regulator with a 'normal' dial? We'll come to this later. First we want to look back to its roots. These are of course laid in the DB15 , but the direct predecessor...
foversta February 24th, 2013-12:59
The combo PC & dead second is stunning. The DB16 is one of my fav watches of the week. A fascinating piece. Thanks for the post! Fx
Mark in Paris February 24th, 2013-13:25
Those wristshots are ... Omg. The duo striked again, I felt a real pleasure in taking time to read these articles. One thing I noticed on the last DB16's pics I saw around is the watch's thickness. I must say it seems to be really thick, a little bit too much I would say. Anyway, the ...
Ornatus-Mundi February 25th, 2013-02:49
The dial is finished... I have been shown such 'plain' dials in 2006: According to my knowledge they experimented quite a loot with their dials, and the current mastery in dial making quite speaks volumes for it. Cheers, Magnus ...
Ornatus-Mundi February 24th, 2013-12:33
The DB25 DB25 Collection Let´s start as a warm-up with something you probably all know, the DB25WS3 (44mm, mechanical self-winding movement) with blued titanium microlight dial and hand-polished steel hands: On the next picture you get a first hint about what is n...
foversta February 24th, 2013-13:06
Even if a lot of explanations can be understood... I consider that the right size for the DB25 is 44mm. Because it is the original size, because the larger dials are more enjoyable to fully appreciate the DB finishings (especially with the DB25L!!!), because the lugs are very short... Anyway, these watche...
Ornatus-Mundi February 25th, 2013-01:54
I think it depends on model, material and wrist. Regarding the simple DB25 my personal feeling is that the difference in diameter has little influence - per se - in the choice of the specific watch. Both offer - regardless of case size - the same 'De Bethune-ness' (i.e. a very slender, sexy wrist feelin...
Mark in Paris February 24th, 2013-13:59
Quite different when we know them, not sure about if it is better or not. Maybe the answer is that it is so different that it is just another watch. I noticed that the hands have a different (skeletonized) base in the 40. I presume it was made to lighten the hands in a smaller dial. Furthermore the power reserve is "eating" the...
doubleup February 25th, 2013-13:18
What a fabulous company they are scoring high for me when it comes to the innovation, creativity, functionality/legibility and finish. Any of those I would be proud and humble to own one day. My opinion has drastically changed of DB over the last 4 years. I really like the 25 an...
ztirual February 26th, 2013-10:39
Fantastic series of pictures of wonderful watches Many, many thanks Oliver & Magnus! You've really made my day. ...now there is no sitting on the fence! Which one to choose? Best regards Z'
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