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Jaeger- Lecoultre SIHH 2013: The Master Ultra Thin Jubilé.

amanico
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Who can still ignore that Ultra thin Watches are part of the Grande Maison Patrimony?

Since the very early XXth Century, LeCoultre made some very thin watches, such as this superb Minute Repeater ( Cal 18 SMV ) produced circa 1920:

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Or the most famous Cal 145, from 1907, whose movement is only 1, 38 high, and which was in production for more than 50 years:

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Jaeger-Lecoultre adaptated the ultra thinness to wristwatches since 1953 ( up to the Eighties ) with the Calibre 803, whose base was used for the Cal 818.

The Cal 803 was remarkably thin: 1, 64 mm only.

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While the Cal 818 was much less thin, with a height of 2, 94 mm, but used in thin watches...

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... Such as the Ref 1901:

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Jaeger-Lecoultre made one of the thinnest automatic movements ever made, the famous Cal 920, used by some prestigious clients such as Patek, Vacheron, and Audemars Piguet.

The Cal 920 is 2, 45 mm high, and was in production since 1967.

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We had to wait till 1994 to ee an Ultra Thin manual movement back into the collection, the well known Cal 849, which is clearly very close to the Cal 803.

The Cal 849 has a diameter of 20, 9 mm ( exactly the same diameter of the Cal 803 ) but it is slightly thicker ( 1, 85 mm instead of 1, 64 mm for the Cal 803 ).

The Cal 849:

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This is this movement we are used to admire on the different Master Ultra Thin watches since 1994, the MUT 34 mm, then, in 2008, the MUT 38, and now... The MUT Jubilé which is unveiled in Geneva, during the SIHH, to celebrate the 180th birthday of the Manufacture.

Let's see the watch in the details, now that the context and the concept have been reminded.

The case is the most spectacular detail of this watch:

All new, it has a diameter of 39 mm, and is " couteau shaped ". Its profile is really impressive:

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Made of extra white platinum, a blend of platinum ( 950 ) and ruthenium ( 50 ), the case is 4, 05 mm high, only.

It is all polished, and represents a real challenge.

A few figures to better understand the complexity of making such a watch:

The gap between the hands and the sapphire glass is only 0, 16 mm, and 0, 2 mm between the case back and the movement ( the well known Cal 849 ).

The glass is only 0, 6 mm thick.

If you found that the MUT 34 mm was ultra thin, you have to keep in mind that it was 5, 75 mm thin.... The New MUT 39 mm is, by far, much thinner, then.

As it was the case with the MUT 34 mm, the new MUT Jubilé will be assembled at the " Grandes Complications " workshop.

JLC opted for a solid case back, for the MUT Jubilé. Which is, in my opinion, a good decision, as the gap between the diameter of the case and the size of the movement is really important.

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The dial is another mesmerizing detail:

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Silver grained, long, thin and painted baton and round indexes, this dial is an example of delicateness, elegance and understatement.

The slim dauphine hands are a nice complement to this masterpiece.

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A fine navy blue crocodile strap will enhance its natural beauty.

And, at the end of the strap, you will find a simple buckle, made of platinum, to avoid any " faute de gout ".

I am quite convinced that this new MUT Jubilé will be the winner of the 2013 JLC Collection, and one of the stars of the 2013 SIHH.

To be complete, the retail will be around 14 000 / 15 000 Euros, and is limited to 880 pieces.

Looking forward to reading your opinions, comments and thoughts,

Best.

Nicolas This message has been edited by amanico on 2013-02-11 00:44:02 This message has been edited by amanico on 2013-02-14 23:20:36

Comments:
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W72 February 11th, 2013-01:14
Another Splendid post.. Thank you for the comprehensive coverage of this wonderful piece. There are several reasons why I think this will be one of the most popular Ultra Thin so far. Firstly, this is really thin and with a 39mm diameter, it will further accentuate the thin prof... 
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amanico February 11th, 2013-06:50
I think you perfectly summed all the virtues of this watch, my friend. Thanks! 
Clavi February 11th, 2013-02:40
Definitively a nice looking watch This watch has about everything I like in a watch from a aesthetic perspective. I am a bit disappointed that the movement is the (rather deceptive) cal 849, especially after looking back at the picture of the 1907 cal 145, that demonstrates that ultra-thi... 
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watchme February 11th, 2013-06:04
Must agree on a couple of points... With today's CAD/CAM programs, JLC could have easily re-worked the 1907 mvt. Also, it isn't really a Jubilee. That being said, I do like the watch and look forward to seeing it in the metal. -Dean
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amanico February 11th, 2013-06:54
Agreed on the dial of the 2233, which is very close to the MUT Jubilé. And yes, a new UT movement, of a bigger diameter, ala Cal 145, would have been exceptional. But, as it is, it is stll a beautiful watch, with a lot of DNA. Thanks for your intresting input, Clavi, which doesn't surprise me as I know your weakness for thes... 
AHMED.G February 11th, 2013-02:46
This post what I'v been waiting for, Thanks a lot Thanks Nicolas , great report & very informing I love the case , love dial, even the blue strap looks perfect (BUT) don't you think 880 a lot for limited about the strap I would like to have your advise , usually I replace the strap with shorter one, ... 
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amanico February 11th, 2013-06:56
Well, I have the feeling that the 880 will go fast. As for a shorter strap, do you mean thinner? If you had the lenght in mind, this all depends of the size of your wrist. Best, Nicolas
AHMED.G February 11th, 2013-07:02
I meant a length my wrist kind of small
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amanico February 11th, 2013-07:04
So, yes, you have no other choice to ask for a smaller one. Which shouldn't be an issue... Any JLC Boutique will happily solve that for you. Best, Nicolas
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Sandgroper February 11th, 2013-03:41
Monsieur Nicolas, as always it is a delight to read your..... reviews which are beautifully written and illustrated, however, before giving my opinion on this subject I would like to add a DISCLOSURE, I have no position in the company above mentioned or the writer of the above mentioned article nor plans to initiate... 
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