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Patek Philippe's retrograde perpetual calendars
Note that this thread includes only the "simple" retrograde perpetual calendars, meaning those with no other complications.
Therefore, the references with a minute repeater and a tourbillon (5013, 5016, 5213, 5216, 5217, 5316) are deliberately lefts aside.
Enjoy!
A/ REFERENCES WITH A NON-OFFICER CASE
1/ Ref. 96 with 11-ligne movement made from a Victorin Piguet ébauche (unique piece from 1937)
credit: Patek Philippe magazine
2/ Ref. 5050 with a 35.5mm case and caliber 315 S QR (3Hz, 48h pr) or 324 S QR (4Hz, 45h pr) introduced in 1993 and in production until 2002
As far as I've understood (but available information is so unclear and confusing), there were three series of this reference:
As far as I've understood (but available information is so unclear and confusing), there were three series of this reference:
- 1st series: Roman numerals, absence of "Automatic" on the semi-circular moon phase & cal. 315 (some models were made later with the same characteristics but Breguet numerals)
- 2nd series: applied baton indexes, presence of "Automatic on a full circle moon phase & cal. 315
- 3rd series: same as 2nd series but with cal. 324
a/ Yellow gold (ref. 5050J - exact ref. number isn't always available)
credit: analog shift
Ref. 5050J-023
credit: European watch company
Ref. 5050J-024
credit: sotheby's
Ref. 5050J-025
credit: sotheby’s
Ref. 5050J-026 (Michael S. Ovitz piece unique with sunburst ardoise-grey dial, suspended applied yellow gold Breguet numerals and skeleton luminescent hands and dots)
credit: antiquorum
credit: amsterdam vintage watches
b/ Rose gold
5050R-001
credit: sotheby’s
Ref. 5050J-026 (Michael S. Ovitz piece unique with sunburst ardoise-grey dial, suspended applied yellow gold Breguet numerals and skeleton luminescent hands and dots)
credit: antiquorum
Ref. 5050J-010 or -019 ?
credit: amsterdam vintage watches
b/ Rose gold
5050R-001
credit: European watch company
2nd series, no precise ref. number found
credit: rostovsky watches
c/ White gold
5050G-001
credit: tourneau
2nd or 3rd series, no specific ref. number found
credit: a collected man
Model with salmon dial, no specific ref. number found
credit: omega forums
d/ Platinum (no specific ref. number found for both 1st and 2nd series)
credit: European watch company
3/ Ref. 5496 with 39.5mm case and caliber 324 S QR introduced in 2011 and produced until 2020
a/ Platinum
Ref. 5496P-001
credit: watch club
Ref. 5496P-014
Ref. 5496P-015
credit: monochrome
Ref. 5496P-011 (probably unique piece with Breguet numerals and blue dial)
credit: phillips
b/ Rose gold, ref. 5496R-001
credit: watch club
4/ Ref. 6159G-001 with a 39,5 x 11,49 mm case and caliber 26-330 S QR introduced in 2025
credit: hodinkee
B/ REFERENCES WITH AN OFFICER CASE
credit: loupe this
credit: watch collectors
credit: phillips
credit: phillips
Ref. 5059G-001
credit: the watch lounge
Ref. 5059G-018
credit: christie's
d/ Platinum
credit: analog shift
credit: christie’s
credit: classic driver
b/ Rose gold, ref. 5159R-001
credit: bonhams
credit: the keystone
credit: watch guru
credit: x
credit: frodos
credit: horobox
1/ Ref. 5059 with a 36 x 13.3mm case and caliber 315 S QR introduced in 1997
a/ Yellow gold
a/ Yellow gold
Ref. 5059J-001
credit: loupe this
Ref. 5059J-018 "Michael Ovitz" unique piece
credit: pinterest
b/ Rose gold
Ref. 5059R-001
credit: watch collectors
Ref. 5059R-017 London Saatchi Edition
credit: phillips
Ref. 5059R-018
credit: phillips
c/ White gold
credit: the watch lounge
Ref. 5059G-018
credit: christie's
d/ Platinum
Ref. 5059P-001
credit: analog shift
Ref. 5059P-018
credit: christie’s
2/ Ref. 5159 with 38 x 11,81mm case and caliber 324 S QR
a/ Yellow gold, ref. 5159J-001
credit: classic driver
b/ Rose gold, ref. 5159R-001
credit: bonhams
c/ White gold
Ref. 5159G-001
credit: the keystone
Ref. 5159G-012 London Edition (Breguet numerals)
credit: watch guru
3/ Ref. 5160 with 38 x 11.81mm case and caliber 324 S QR (this ref. is a variation of the 5159 with an intricately hand-engraved case and clasp)
Ref. 5160R-001 (2013)
credit: x
Ref. 5160/500G-001 (Breguet numerals, 2016)
credit: frodos
Ref. 5160/500R-001 (Breguet numerals, 2024)
credit: horobox
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Patek Philippe's retrograde perpetual calendars
Note that this thread includes only the "simple" retrograde perpetual calendars, meaning those with no other complications. Therefore, the references with a minute repeater and a tourbillon (5013, 5016, 5213, 5216, 5217, 5316) are deliberately lefts aside...
wow 🤩! Thanks for this post !
Some very interesting pieces ! Which one is your favorite ?
I find it difficult to choose a clear favorite here.
Among 5050, it’s 5050R but ideally I would like stick indexes without “Automatic” and with a semicircular moon phase (like on the Roman numerals model). Among 5496, I like the regular platinum with non-framed windows and semicircular moon phase. But at th...
It looks so gorgeous!
There’s one for sale on C24 but I don’t dare ask for the price…
Another fantastic post!
Great, so now I'll be sitting at my desk getting nothing done for the next hour looking at these. My personal favorite (leaving out unique pieces, since they're unobtainable) is ref. 5496. Never liked seeing the word automatic on the dial. They didn't use...
I’m not fond either of the Automatic
and I like the semicircular moonphase better the fully circular one. Reason why I like the regular platinum 5496, even though pt feels a bit cold to me. I also find the 5159 quite attractive. But the London 5059R-017 looks so warm and gorgeous! Thanks for...
I am biased toward J to start with...
...but the 5050 reference was made for this metal : ) I saw one when new and fell in love, but there was no way I could have afforded it back then.
Being personally biased towards rose gold
because of its warmth, I like the R versions quite a bit. But I see what you mean about the J variants, which are gorgeous indeed. And, having seen none in real life, I know that what I feel on paper could be different from what I would feel in the metal....
Another great write up Emmanuel! In my opinion the 5050 is a very important watch in Patek’s modern history of complicated watches.
Sadly, while it made a big splash prior to 5059 borrowing the same movement, it seems to have lost favor somewhat with prices in the secondary market way way down from the initial highs. In general it seems like 5050/5059/5159 are very underappreciated. I...
I had read that the true 5050 first series had painted Roman numerals
but couldn’t find any photos: thank you so much for filling in this gap. The retrograde perpetual calendar is not only very good looking in terms of layout: it also contains a very pleasing complication. And, more specifically, concerning the 5496P-015, w...
Patek 5496 is definitely a very under appreciated watch, particularly with the 001 dial which you prefer. Just 2 months
ago in Phillip’s November HK sale lot 884 a single sealed one with box and papers sold “all in” for approximately $45,000 USD! Think about it - factory fresh, single sealed platinum retrograde perpetual with 2 backs for almost $15,000 less than a platinum...
The lack of interest for these references is sad and shows how
blind us watch enthusiasts can become. But it’s a very good news too, because it means these watches remain attainable. I’m glad to know the 5496 wears well and will definitely try to see one in the metal someday. Best, Emmanuel
Information explosion!, great stuff Quattro! Sharing my 5050J doré (champagne) dial.
HAGWE my friends. Mech. ...
This is really a dream watch
even I think this stick indexes version would be even more perfect without the “Automatic” and with a semicircular moon phase as in the 1st gen. But these are minor details given the overall greatness of this timepiece. Best.
That London edition and the one with the salmon dial looks so good but with a engraved case 🤩👌🏻
That would be my dream tbh🙏🏻 so beautiful
The London 5059R really stands out, yes!
And I personally prefer the case without engravings. Thanks for looking!
What a wonderful duo!
Lucky you: both fantastic! “Unloved”, maybe, yes, but certainly not by me! I would love to own one of these.
For a serious collection…
… the first series (with roman dial) in platinum is the gold standard. Extremely rare. And the first of its kind. but nearly impossible to get in the market.
I get that, but pt leaves me cold and I find it cold looking,
so I’d be more happy with a rose or yellow gold version (just my taste of course).
5160/500R is as beautiful as a gem.
This watch is impressive no matter how many times you look at it, but the price is a bit unattractive...
Thanks for this post
I am not sure why but I can’t warm up to the date arranged this way
Do you like it better when it is fully circular (as in VC's 1942 triple calendar),
or do you dislike any pointer indication of the date? credit: monochrome ...
I find it nice too,
but I personally also like the retrograde date arching from 8 to 4. Just a matter of personal taste of course.
I’m glad you like some of these references.
There’s so much to love in most of them, imo.
I know that some super classic design elements have fallen out of favor with many collectors.
Especially since the world is getting more casual. But there’s something special about a retrograde perpetual calendar Patek. Call me crazy but I still love it.
Nicely done - 5050G-001
Well done! FYI, the white gold 5050G with baton indices is a 2nd series, reference 5050G-001.