Gentlemen,

If you remember, I had a chance to handle the white dial 5200G earlier in the year (here: www.watchprosite.com ). This time, I could try the Patek Philippe 5200G blue dial version launched in 2013 (but which has just recently arrived in stores), and now I am able to share my thoughts and some pictures.





As a reminder, this watch has a 32.4 x 46.9 mm Gondolo case which protects the 28-20 square shaped caliber, which is visible through a sapphire case back.


CASE AND STYLE

The 5200G is a beautiful Art Deco style model with its famous stepped case sides. The Dauphine hands adequately complete the whole picture. In my opinion, Stick or Leaf hands would have been nonsense with this case sides' design.





I like the fact the bottom date subsidiary dial is large, as it helps in visually widening the watch: a little one would have made the case seem too long.





These rectangular watches have a strong character and help forging an interesting brand DNA. Recently, the new Patek Philippe 5124G (a three hands version) took a seat next to this reference.





The case, being in the same gold color as the white dial reference, is just as beautiful, of course. But the main differences, the white gold hands and markers with the blue metallic dial, make this watch a much more classical and dressy model even if the blue dial still appears unique and more surprising than a silvery one.

It is interesting to notice that, this time, the blue dial version looks a little more classical than the white one, due to the choice of the markers and hands' finish.

Of course, in this case, the "dressy" term I used has an original touch as it is not the kind of case we are used to wearing that much nowadays. I imagine this one beautifully matching a suit. Furthermore, what is perfect with the blue dial is that it will fit blue jeans too, thus going very well with a casual outfit and rolled-up sleeves.



Credit: Bruno.M1


I remember when I tried the white one that its dimensions looked already pretty good on my flat but 16cm wrist. With the blue dial, it should even look a little smaller.






MOVEMENT

With its 28 x 20 x 5 mm dimensions and a 28,800 vph frequency, the nice 28-20 REC 8J PS IRM C J caliber is a rectangular manually-wound movement, very well finished and beautifully designed, especially with those 3 bridges' alignment at the bottom.

This movement is equipped with the Spiromax spring made of Silinvar and has a significant and handy 8 days power reserve. Day and date indications with instantaneous jump are added to these useful features.





This caliber is not a simple one in consideration of this important power reserve and the jumping date feature. Hence, making a square caliber is also something which needs quite an amount of development work and is not a configuration we see in many other traditional brands' collections, especially regarding the low sale volumes compared to round shape cases.





It oozes very nice finishing quality and is, in that respect, a more interesting offer than other Patek manual winding movement in that segment (215 etc... not taking into account the pocket watches movement). At another price tag though.


THOUGHTS AND CONCLUSION

I wasn't really attracted by the white one before I could try it. However, I changed my mind completely and thought that this may even be my favorite combination from the 3 available versions (there is also a yellow gold 5200 in the catalogue). With that Rectangular Art Deco case and how the beveled sapphire glass is shaped, the darkened hands and markers together with the white dial make a beautifully looking combination IMHO.



Credit: Bruno.M1


This modern (darkened parts, red dot on the power reserve) and classical mix is working perfectly. That's why I finally came to ask myself if the white dial reference didn't reach the first position in the end, depending on what we are looking for of course. It's up to you!

Whichever model you may choose, one thing is sure with these two versions: I may not be used to wearing shaped watches (aside of my RM which remains very different) but this Gondolo looks really cool and elegant. It is not the kind of longer watch that would look too big and thus lack elegance on a normal wrist. You definitely feel that you're wearing something very special with a little vintage feeling but in a modern and new combination.





The 5200 case and style is definitely a convincing and original alternative to the Calatravas (also true for its manual wound movement) if you are looking for a refined and dressy watch and wish to wear a classical Patek Philippe.


So, in the end, which one would you prefer: the white or the blue dial?

Cheers, Mark





This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-10-09 04:39:49