Dear all,

In 2015, a new version of the Patek Philippe 5153 was presented in a rose gold case. I didn't have the opportunity to make a review of this watch as I saw it late last year.

I think it is also nice to make a pause after the Baselworld 2016 novelties we discovered one month ago, and have a closer look at something different that we aren't used to seeing frequently. Don't worry, I'll continue to post some shots (after the new 5327R last week) during the next few weeks before I come to the hands-on reviews.

As it represents a very different Calatrava offer from the 5196 and 5227 current references or the 5127 (previous generations), and as this reference always had a very special flavor in terms of elegance, I think it is interesting to shed a little light on it. It is undoubtedly a very nice alternative in the world of simple Calatravas.

The model was already available in yellow gold (silvery dial) or white gold (silvery dial).

Yet, you perhaps have noticed that the 5153G "Black dial" version has been discontinued this year.

THE CASE

First, I'd like to say that I particularly like seeing this R version. Though black dials are very popular, the rose gold color from Patek Philippe is one of my favorite as it is not too loaded in copper, thus the color remains lighter than most of the rose gold cases I could handle in the past. It is hence a little more discreet and definitely more refined that way. By the way, I often noticed that the work of a case (curves etc...) is easier to observe, the details stand out better, on a colored gold watch compared to a white metal one. These are two aspects of rose gold that I appreciate a lot, especially from Patek.

This particular Calatrava reference is easily recognizable with its more poetic and rounder case enhanced by its Officer's caseback feature. This case makes an echo from the traditional pocket watches style and opening characteristic. The hinge is on the crown's side whereas on the newer 5227's it is placed on the opposite side of the case.

The 5153 is borrowing the case we find in other references as the 5159 for instance (both in 38mm) and lugs shape which is very elegant choice. As a three-hands watch, it is very refined although in a different interpretation from the pure style of the thinner 3-hands references? However, it gives rise to a more traditional style, following the beginning of 20th century's trend. This nice spirit is embodied in the case's shape but also its proportions thanks to a 9.7mm height versus 9.2mm for the 5227 which also provides a hunter-type caseback. I don't think that a thinner case of this shape would have left this impression as nicely.

To complete the picture, a detail I particularly love in this watch is the crown and its hinge display that serves as a "pedestal". It is a beautiful work and is one of the elements that distinguish the watch from any other model. This beautiful crown gives the final touch to a very homogeneous and well balanced design.

This hunter's back cover is a lovely detail I always have a soft spot for as it reminds me of older pocket watches but also because admiring a movement with the caseback open is always a very unique moment. As I said before, while they bring poetry and romanticism to a watch, they also can provide the beauty of a see-through sapphire caseback together with an engraved plain model, if you wish to.

THE DIAL

On the dial's side, it has hour applied markers only, without any kind of numerals. The dial is very legible that way and you'll notice also that these markers are perfectly matching with the Dauphine hands (antagonistic orientation).

Moreover, I find the minute dots (in the style of "Cabochons" nails) supporting the five-minute triangular markers very adequate. The fact they are on the rim side leaves a very clear dial in the middle.

In this reference, the silvery opaline dial reflects the warmth of rose gold and I must say this is something I like when dealing with colored gold watches. A combination that works perfectly together.

As you have noticed the center of the dial is decorated with a soft sunray hand-guilloché pattern (two kinds of rays) and a very nicely integrated Patek Philippe logo. I find the date window has a very proportionate size compared to the markers, it respects the visual five minutes sequence and its nice metal frame is a perfect addition to bring the same light reflecting aspect.

Finally, the date, perfectly integrated at 3 o'clock, gives the final touch to the dial with a refined frame (a decorating detail Patek masters very well as I mentioned in my 5227's review and when discussing about the 5960P lately).

THE MOVEMENT

It houses the 324 SC caliber (central sweep second) with the Spiromax balance spring made of Silinvar (Silicon-based). This is the very reliable automatically wound movement we already know about (45h power reserve, beating at 28.800 vph).

(legal mention: the nail polish is not part of the complete set, sorry guys...)

It is equipped with a deploying buckle which is a very nice attention for a 3-hands Calatrava.

CONCLUSION

As I said, this reference is much more than a simple three-hands watch. It is a way to choose a simple and charming model in Patek Philippe's collection that I would put next to a 5124 Gondolo model. Yes, they are from two completely different worlds in terms of style but their uniqueness and strong character; the fact they are not the most obvious choice but how much they can bring to someone who knows how to understand and read it, makes them cousins. Like the Gondolo, its unique style and caseback are a kind of "complication" on its own (maybe not but you see the idea...).

It is priced at 31 400 € in France.

So, what do you think of this model? Not the most consensual but certainly, to me, a very appealing and poetic model I have a tender look at when I see it.

Cheers, Mark