With all the noise from the grand complications, Aquanaut hysteria and Nautilus obsession, it is easy to forget perhaps, the most elegant and probably most important piece in the collection- the ref.5227, automatic Calatrava with date.
Ref 3445
Its origins go back to 1961, with the ref 3445. This was the first waterproof, automatic wrist watch with date from the house, and the movement was “amagnetic”. It was the only watch you would need most of the time.
Lineage of the Automatic with date:
Ref 5107p
Ref 5127g credits Sotheby’s
Of course many references soon followed. In recent times the most related stylistically to the 5227, was the ref.3998. At a mere 33mm it followed the trend of smaller and thinner. This naturally gave way to a larger 37mm ref 5107p with large bezel and crown guards. The 5107 developed into a more subtle, more elegant perhaps ref 5127, with a rounded bezel. The veritable 5127 retired to give us the new ref. 5227. In its new 39mm size.
The ref.5227 – a symbiosis of classical Patek signatures The 5227, was not just a larger iteration of its illustrious forbears, on the contrary, it fused stylistic elements of the original Bauhaus coin Calatrava and the other great Patek- the Officer case. The new, idiosyncratic feature of this new Calatrava is the invisible hinged back cover, so typical of the officer-type cases. You could be forgiven for thinking that mixing such iconic aesthetic features would not blend well, but with typical Patek technical mastery, the imperceptible hinge, does not adulterate the pure lines of the Calatrava. Et Voila you have perhaps the most charismatic case of recent times. It doesn’t end there though.
The case has another wonder up its sleeve, or should I say lugs. The lugs feature gently curved flutes, sculpted meticulously from the case flank. They add yet another dimension to the case architecture. Each flute is fastidiously polished ensuring a mirror like varnish.
Finally, the movement. The ever reliable cal. caliber 324 SC. It features the signature large four-arm Gyromax® balance with a Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar® beats at a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (
4 Hz). It produces an accuracy of -3 to +2 seconds per day- far exceeding chronometer requirements. Here are the specifications from the data sheet:
Here are the specifications from the data sheet:
Calatrava Ref. 5227
Movement: Caliber 324 S C
Self-winding mechanical movement, aperture date, and sweep
seconds
Diameter: 27 mm
Height: 3.3 mm
Number of parts: 213
Number of jewels: 29
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Functions: 3-position crown
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled halfway out: To correct the date
– Pulled out: To set the time
Displays: Center hours, minutes, and sweep seconds
Aperture date with an 18K gold frame at 3 o'clock
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Features
Case: Round case in 18K yellow, rose, or white gold, snap back with a
sapphire-crystal glass beneath a dust cover with an invisible hinge
Lugs with curved flutes
Water-resistant to 30 m
Case dimensions: Diameter: 39 mm
Height (crystal – lugs): 9.58 mm
Height (crystal – dust cover): 9.24 mm
Width between lugs: 19 mm
Dial: Brass, cream-colored lacquer
Polished Dauphine hands in 18K gold with two facets
12 applied trapezoidal hour markers in 18K gold
Strap: Hand-stitched alligator with square scales, shiny black (white gold),
shiny chocolate brown (yellow gold) or shiny dark brown (rose gold);
16-mm prong buckle in 18K gold to match the case