Patek Philippe: Ref 5230: An historical review of the World Time

Miranda

The World Time complication or “Heure Universelle” ranks amongst Patek Philippe’s most sought after complications. This is hardly surprising, as this venerable complication spans a rich history over the last 80 years. The masterpieces crafted in the manufacture have become icons, enjoying a cult status unmatched.

Patek Philippe world time complications are inextricably linked to Louis Cottier. Cottier, the son of a watchmaker, has become famous for developing the movement that allowed indication of the time for all 24 time zones- on a single dial. He initially designed a pocket watch with a movement that displayed the local time in the traditional display i.e. in the centre of the dial but with the hour and minute hands allied to a rotating 24hour ring. The names of the various cities around the world were engraved onto an outer dial ring

The local time zone or city would be at the 12 o’ clock position thus allowing the central dial and hands, 24 hour ring and outer city ring to display the time in every time zone in the world simultaneously.

During the late 1930’s Cottier scaled down the movement allowing it to fit a wrist watch. Patek Philippe first used this new movement in the reference 1415. This was a single crown model and utilised a rotatable bezel engraved with the cities for manual adjustment to display local time at 12 o’clock

In the early 1950’s the movement was modified, allowing a second crown which changed the reference local time city. The cities were now displayed as in the earlier pocket watches in an outer dial ring. This allowed for an easier way of changing the reference city when travelling.

In 1953 Patek Philippe, would unveil this new movement, the 12-400 HU calibre, in the now legendary and iconic reference 2523. For its time the 2523 boasted a rather large diameter of 35.5 mm and was fitted with superb faceted lugs that are among Patek’s most aesthetically stunning. The dial featured 41 cities. Quite simply, the 2523 series is probably the most desired world time complication in the world. It is perfect in every sense.

After the passing away of Louis Cottier in the late 1960’s, Patek Philippe ended production of the world time.

After a hiatus of 35 years, Patek Philippe launched the classic world time with the now cult reference 5110. The case of the 5110 supported a new contemporary Calatrava case with crown guards, very similar to the reference 5134 dual time. The dial was beautifully finished with guilloche at the centre. This new world time had a push button at the 10 o’ clock position that allowed for instant adjustment of both hands and timezone indication from the inner bezel. The movement was a development of the famed calibre 240, which has become a classic in its own right.

The reference 5130 in 2006 replaced the 5100 with an increase in size to 39mm. This increase allowed for a sumptuous cloisonné enamel version, the reference 5131.

Last year, Patek’s iconic world time evolved into the new reference 5230. All the other references were discontinued.

The new reference allowed Patek to take the opportunity to delicately revise the case, dial, and hands. The influence of the famed ref.2523 is clear to see. As well as aesthetic changes, now was an opportune time to update the world time indications and bring them up to date with the modern time zones.

The changes were needed because Moscow has moved one hour earlier to Western Europe, moving from being four hours ahead to just three. Some of the city names, have been changed as an example Dubai is shown instead of Riyadh and Brisbane replaces Noumea.

The revised case design of the 5230 was a superb evolution being both modern with a case diameter of 38.5mm (the narrow bezel, allows the 5230 to wear larger than its diameter would suggest) but aesthetically evoking the passion and romance of its illustrious forbearer the ultimate world time reference 2523. Credit for this belongs to Sandrine Stern. The new Ref. 5230 comes in white or rose gold 5N.

The hand shapes were revised so as to evoke the silhouette of the famous "Southern Cross" constellation.

The dial centre once again features a new, beautiful hand-guilloche pattern. This pattern was inspired from a pocket watch exhibited at the Patek Philippe museum.

In summary, the 5230 is a heterogeneous mix of vintage inspiration and modern innovation. The case whilst traditional is modern in size, whilst the world time display is brought up to date for the modern times we are in. It is simply for me one of finest world time watches and “a wolf in sheep’s clothing”- future classic status assured.

Stunning guilloche dial

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Legendary movement

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Exquisite lugs, echoing the romance of the golden era of the 1950’s
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Perfect size
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Stunning on the wrist

Thank you for reading

Best

Imran

This message has been edited by Baron - Mr Red on 2017-11-03 00:28:44 This message has been edited by Baron - Mr Red on 2017-11-03 10:11:20

Comments:

Ares501 - Mr Green November 2nd, 2017-14:52

Excellent post Imran and nice historical overview of PP's WT definitely one of watchmaking icons. The reference post to return to. Cheers D

Miranda November 5th, 2017-05:53

cheers bro!

Alkiro1 November 2nd, 2017-15:45

Wonderful post dear Imran. Thank you Best wishes Alkiro

Miranda November 5th, 2017-05:53

My pleasure, thank you

Alkiro1 November 5th, 2017-09:34

🙏 Best wishes Alkiro

geross November 2nd, 2017-15:53

Very comprehensive post on Patek world times. Your post made me appreciate the history of a wonderful and usefull complication. Thank you. Best wishes. Geross.

Miranda November 5th, 2017-05:54

Appreciate your kind words

5980 November 2nd, 2017-16:04

Your post provides the substance this complication deserves. Much of which is new to me, so thank you. Well done

Baron - Mr Red November 3rd, 2017-10:12

isn't it great.... ......not sure I have seen a better review of the WT

Miranda November 5th, 2017-05:55

Your reply means a lot, makes it worthwhile Many thanks and truly appreciate your kind words Best Imran

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Miranda

Patek Philippe - 25 Years of Ownership - the Crazy Years

Miranda

So picking up from the 3796 I bought in 1992, I soon fell in love 😍 with a very special piece: the reference 3998 No ordinary 3998 but the Garrard 150th anniversary piece. The problem as always was finance- being on fixed income I never have had the luxury of hoarding: even though that would have been a dream. I saw the 3998 in Garrards, but it was too expensive. A year later I saw it at David Duggan, and David kindly offered all my money back on the 3796.

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