Credit: Oliver and Magnus

The Gondolo family is a very interesting model style, even if it will not sing to everyone.

As I previously wrote about the White dial and Blue dial  versions of the 5200G reference, it is perfectly natural to have a closer look now at the new 5124G unveiled in Baselworld 2015.

THE FRONT SIDE

The Art Deco case (mainly because of the case's stepped side shape) is a fantastic asset of Patek Philippe's current catalogue and having a simpler but also a different in size (not necessary smaller!) Gondolo is very interesting for Patek aficionados.

The 5124 reference existed already in yellow gold and this white gold version represents the white metal hence the sportier addition. Several years ago (in 2011 if I remember well) there was already a white gold version, though a little more classical due to the color and numerals' choices. The new 5124G is much more contemporary, a theme which is also supported by the Dauphine hands choice (versus leaf ones in the previous G version).

Yellow and new 2015 white gold versions side by side:

Credit: Oliver or Magnus

The discontinued white gold model:

Why did I earlier say "not smaller"? Because, as a matter of fact, though the new 3-hands 5124G is smaller in height than the 5200 reference with 43mm (versus 46.9mm) it remains a little larger in width at 33.4mm (versus 32.4mm). You can understand now that the 5124 is more than a simpler and smaller 5200, which would have been the easier way to bring it. It is now looking a little more square than rectangular, which IMHO suits it better to the spirit of a dressy and elegant 3-hand piece.

One detail I like a lot (as it will bring much comfort) is that the whole case is arched.

Its proportions are thus more likely to please Patek clients looking for a discreet everyday watch but with a touch of uniqueness and style coming from the 1920-1940's: much character, keeping in mind it is still a rectangular watch, but remaining a classic.

THE DIAL

The color of the dial, as for the 5200G, is perfectly allowing wearing it with a more casual outfit, during the week-end for instance. The blue dial is about the same tone than the 5200G and has a sunburst pattern which plays a lot with the light reflection. This certainly gives animation in a purer global outfit.

You can see here below a picture showing the 5124G next to the darker blue of the new 6000G (which I talked about here ...).

Credit: Our fellow purist Patrickh

There are no numerals of any sort, just a beautiful set of applied gold faceted markers for the hours, over a silvery minute scale. I think that such a case makes the strength of the watch and that it doesn't absolutely need numerals as it will appear lighter and more refined this way.

An additional detail I like very much (especially in the 5200) is the sapphire glass edge finishing. Describing the glass as an "invisible" element is usually redundant, but in this case, it brings another nice detail to the front side. The faceted finish is Art Deco too (like the wall mirrors from the same period) and gorgeous, as with the help of this dense material, the edges are very sharp.

THE MOVEMENT

The manually-wound caliber's base is completely different from the 5200, a detail you can notice particularly in the bridges' shape, as the 5124's mechanism is based on the 215 sketch but the mainplate and bridges have been completely re-designed. I find this rectangular 25-21 REC PS movement is very beautiful with its "S" bridge in the center. No “round movement in a square case” here.

Credit: Our fellow purist Patrickh

It is furthermore equipped with the Silinvar (silicon-based material) spiral taken from the Advanced Research program and has a 44 hours power reserve (28,000 vph).

SUMMARY

In conclusion, I would like to mention that this is a really well-born reference from the Gondolo family: the case, the dial or the caliber are completely coherent and work with one another. This model has succeeded in combining a classic but daring style model with a dressy and elegant watch. I say so as the modern side of a watch is often supported by a more "sporty" side. Here it is not sporty at all but could be worn casually as a very refined model.

The caliber, though derived from the 215 caliber has shown that Patek can make a very well updated caliber in term of size and style while keeping (I assume) its "experienced" reliability.

This 5124G is a fantastic alternative to a round Calatrava model if you wish to keep the Patek elegance yet in a unique (i.e. unusual nowadays) case form.

I'm curious to read about your thoughts on this reference as it is not every year I guess that we'll find a shaped watch at Basel.

Cheers, Mark