PIAGET Rose Passion Watches and Jewellery - part 2 - Cloisonné Dial

Through this mini-series about the Technique and Aesthetique of the Piaget Rose Passion Collection, we will explore cloisonné enamel, 'petticoat-style' setting, meshwork, chaton and glyptic work. Many of the jewellery techniques and tools were adopted for watchmaking during the evolution of luxury goods market. In this report, we focus on the new Piaget Rose Passion Collection Piaget Altiplano 38mm watches (Ref. G0A39081 & G0A39084) with grand-feu cloisonné enamel dials featuring roses.

The art of enamel at Piaget is described in previous reports on PuristSPro (see references below).

Enamelling is the process of fusing layers of ground glass onto metal using a kiln or torch. Firings can take from 30 seconds to several minutes, with the kiln heated above 650°C and depending on the techniques and materials used. The distinctive feature of grand feu enamels, when compared to conventional enamels, is that their melting point is far higher, situated between 820°C and 850°C.

Sorted by colour, enamel powder is kept in small labelled boxes

Ground enamel takes the form of a fine powder, coming in a variety of different colours

Cloisonné enamel

French for "cell", where thin wires are applied to form raised barriers, which contain different areas of enamel applied above the original metal form. The first task is to outline the desired pattern using silver or gold wire. Since Piaget’s main concern is exceptional quality, the brand exclusively uses gold wire to outline the cells in this manner.

Application of gold wire in accordance with the outline of the rose pattern : the core of the cloisonné technique

Cutting and laying the gold wire

Once the design has been completed, it is fixed with tracaganth gum that disappears during the firing process. The enamel is contained within wire cells (cloisons). These wires are usually fired onto a base coat of flux (a clear transparent enamel), then filled with wet enamel. The wet enamel is often applied with quill in layers, a technique known as wet packing. The piece is fired after each layer has been applied.

Colour

Colour in enamel is obtained by the addition of various minerals, often metal oxides of cobalt, iron, praseodymium, or neodymium. The last creates delicate shades ranging from warm grey through wine-red to pure violet. Enamel can be transparent, opaque or opalescent (translucent), which is a variety that gains a milky opacity the longer it is fired.

Overview of raw enamel samples, before grinding

Fine brushes and enamel : the tools of the enameller

Raw piece of enamel before being ground

Colour Firing Enamel

Unlike paint, different enamel colours cannot be mixed to make a new colour. This produces tiny specks of both colours; although the eye can be tricked by grinding colours together to an extremely fine, flour-like, powder, the true skill is creating new homogenous colours.

The process is more of an Art rather than a Science because pyrometer readings vary widely from kiln to kiln. No precise firing temperatures are “universal". Enamelling on silver is very different from enamelling on copper; what is high-firing on silver may be a low-firing for copper.

Application of gold wire in accordance with the outline of the rose pattern

Filling in the rose with a palette of pink hues

Applying little touches based on a whole range of pink enamels

The delicate art of cloisonné filling in the cells with different tones of rose-coloured enamel

One of the petals delineated by gold wire being delicately filled in with enamel

Dial under creation

Dial under creation

The six one-of-a-kind Métiers d’Art models in the Piaget Passion Rose Collection portray the same Yves Piaget rose, interpreted in six different colours to demonstrate the richness and variety of colours that the artisan can achieve.

The intensely moving and passionate Piaget Rose Passion collection expresses all the beauty and elegance of Joséphine, the much-loved Empress with whom Piaget shares its passion for the Queen of Flowers.

One dial currently under creation next to a finished one

Piaget Rose Passion Piaget Altiplano 38mm
Case in 18K white gold set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.7 ct).
Dial in grand-feu cloisonné enamel.
Manufacture Piaget 430P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement.
White satin bracelet with white gold ardillon buckle
Ref. G0A39081

Piaget Rose Passion Piaget Altiplano 38mm
Case in 18K pink gold set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.7 ct).
Dial in grand-feu cloisonné enamel.
Manufacture Piaget 430P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement.
White satin bracelet with pink gold ardillon buckle
G0A39084

PIAGET Enamel Watches – a Fusion of Art and Science: Part 1
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Enamel Watches – a Fusion of Art and Science: Part 2
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Rose Passion Watches and Jewellery - part 1 - Empress Josephine and Malmaison
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Rose Passion Watches and Jewellery - part 2 - Cloisonné Dial 
piaget.watchprosite.com  

Dr M. Teillol-Foo, 2014