Genealogical studies (I/II): From the Roger Dubuis Sympathie to the La Monégasque
Ornatus-Mundi
Investigating the gallery of ancestral portraits is quite revealing if we are speaking about watches. It tells about management decisions, changing tastes & preferences as well as of watchmaking capabilities.
I seized the opportunity of a recent trip to the Roger Dubuis Manufacture in Meyrin trying to understand the history of the different complications. Sales of all watches, however, was/is a healthy business and thus there are only few 'historic' pieces available for comparison.
This article is the first of two trying to elucidate the paths which led to two of the current collections, the Hommage and the La Monégasque, respectively (the former to follow later this autumn).
The La Monégasque , is (one of) the most recent new additions to the Roger Dubuis line of fine timepieces, yet it is one that follows the footsteps of one of the foundation watches, the Sympathie collection. The transition is quite an interesting one!
1. The magnificent original Sympathie:
The point of departure is the baroquesque original Sympathie watch:
This watch is a kind of an archetype to a vivid, emotional and a bit irrational watchmaking school. I would not consider it exaggerative to claim that this watch is the embodiment of luxury timekeeping - emphasis on the term in italics.
This watch is a kind of an archetype to a vivid, emotional and a bit irrational watchmaking school. I would not consider it exaggerative to claim that this watch is the embodiment of luxury timekeeping - emphasis on the term in italics.
Housed in a complicated sensual cushion-shaped case of about 39mm diameter, an equally complicated mechanism displays the perpetual calendar function with five hand from the centre and one at 6 o'clock (month) and 12 o'clock (moonphase), respectively. Two functions, date and weekday, are retrograde demonstrating Mr Roger Dubuis' deep involvement in the creation of this watch:
The case makes use of all three dimensions intuitively accessible to human's senses (let's consider time as an acquired one, one that kinds have to learn). It follows what watch collectors refer to as 'cushion-shaped', however in this case it seems to be the property of an elderly lady, cherished and much used over time. It reminds me on the pillars my grandmother used to possess.
The case makes use of all three dimensions intuitively accessible to human's senses (let's consider time as an acquired one, one that kinds have to learn). It follows what watch collectors refer to as 'cushion-shaped', however in this case it seems to be the property of an elderly lady, cherished and much used over time. It reminds me on the pillars my grandmother used to possess.
The shapes are incredibly complex to manufacture and - particularly! - finish. I counted six levels from bezel to case-back!
Its movement is based upon the automatic movement Cal. RD57 (Lemania 8815 automatic-based). Note the complex 'RD' emblem on the rotor and corresponding engraving on the display back!
How does it feel to have a true classic on the wrist? M-A-G-N-I-F-I-C-I-E-N-T-! Its so emotional, deeply satisfying, exuberant yet discrete at the same time. Rarely does one find such a combination these days!
2.) The Sympathie 43:
For a detailed review by Dr. Ming Woo & Anthony Tsai see here !
Its movement is based upon the automatic movement Cal. RD57 (Lemania 8815 automatic-based). Note the complex 'RD' emblem on the rotor and corresponding engraving on the display back!
How does it feel to have a true classic on the wrist? M-A-G-N-I-F-I-C-I-E-N-T-! Its so emotional, deeply satisfying, exuberant yet discrete at the same time. Rarely does one find such a combination these days!
Of course I should note that the watch above is not really the original Sympathie. That honours is awarded to those watches which have an elaborately shaped crystal that exactly follows the shape of the case. Production and ensuring watertightness must have been a (costly!) nightmare, and I can fully understand the decision to abandon that crystal in favour of a more common round glass.
These watches are a real collector's treasure. The following pics are taken from the web - enjoy!
2.) The Sympathie 43:
Around mid-2000 the original Sympathie went to the Spa and was subjected to some cosmetic surgery in order to rejuvenate and refresh itself. The result is the Sympathie 43 collection which comes - oh surprise! - in a significantly enlarged case of 43 mm:
It was such in keeping with the then de rigeur trend of oversized watches. That such has its own engineering problems is highlighted best by the addition of the third lug central in midst the other two. It was just considered necessary to avoid increased stress on the spring bars that hold the strap (it also ensured that a RD owner would return to the manufacture to obtain replacement straps, a small added benefit to RD ;-)).
It was such in keeping with the then de rigeur trend of oversized watches. That such has its own engineering problems is highlighted best by the addition of the third lug central in midst the other two. It was just considered necessary to avoid increased stress on the spring bars that hold the strap (it also ensured that a RD owner would return to the manufacture to obtain replacement straps, a small added benefit to RD ;-)).
The watch overall got a more sporty, bold image both on the case as well as dial and hands. I consider the latter two to be one of the absolute highlights of any RD of any age. Both reached a graphical refinement that represented the watches' position within all the RD offerings like no other (side-note: both hands and dials were also offered in the then contemporary RD Hommage 43 collection, an equally admirably match!). I just adore the bold, luscious elements and particulalry the gorgeous heat-blued hand!
The case shape itself was both more complex (in terms of elements shown, something I personally find a bit too much (pun intended!)) but more streamlined towards modern CNC-enabled manufacture. If you look at the outer edges of the cases in comparison you might agree with me.
The movement is the same automatic movement Cal. RD57 derivative. Note the stark elements on the surrounding bezel as well as the lack of the 'RD' logo engraving. It facilitates the view on the movement but also takes away a bit of the idiosyncratic RD charm:
A real surprise came when I strapped on this watch: I was not prepared to actually like it, but I found to have a real liking for its presence:
The case shape itself was both more complex (in terms of elements shown, something I personally find a bit too much (pun intended!)) but more streamlined towards modern CNC-enabled manufacture. If you look at the outer edges of the cases in comparison you might agree with me.
The movement is the same automatic movement Cal. RD57 derivative. Note the stark elements on the surrounding bezel as well as the lack of the 'RD' logo engraving. It facilitates the view on the movement but also takes away a bit of the idiosyncratic RD charm:
A real surprise came when I strapped on this watch: I was not prepared to actually like it, but I found to have a real liking for its presence:
Sideline:
A distant 'sister' to the Sympathie 43 was the Easy Diver, a fully-fledged sports watch which paid reference to the original Sympathie. A bit covered up, but there are still traces of 'sympathetic elements' beneath the bezel:
For a detailed review by Dr. Ming Woo & Anthony Tsai see here !
3.) The La Monégasque:
Introduced a few years ago, the La Monégasque is the current standard bearer of the Sympathie heritage. Decidedly modern, it clearly exposes its lineage:
The case has been trimmed down to the essentials of a cushion-shaped case, and graphical emphasis been given to the dial. I like the clear distinction, in terms of radii, between hours (outer ring) and minutes (centre). For the first time applied arabics (with the now modern RD font) indicate the former.
The case has been trimmed down to the essentials of a cushion-shaped case, and graphical emphasis been given to the dial. I like the clear distinction, in terms of radii, between hours (outer ring) and minutes (centre). For the first time applied arabics (with the now modern RD font) indicate the former.
The hands are simplified yet still with bold impression. I prefer the former ones of the 43mm Sympathie but I could well live with the new ones. Overall, I an enamoured with the reduction (in terms of elements) and their subsequent more prominent presentation on the dial:
In terms of movements I do not attempt to compare a tourbillon-equipped timepiece with the more simple automatic ones above. The image below should just demonstrate that the overall case is less complex (more attuned to the economics of production, I suppose ;-):
Like the above, the watch makes a strong impression strapped on. I am not sure however whether this is due to the specific watch above with its fascinating combination of complications. Surely I admire its architectural simplicity combined with pronounced presence on the wrist!
In terms of movements I do not attempt to compare a tourbillon-equipped timepiece with the more simple automatic ones above. The image below should just demonstrate that the overall case is less complex (more attuned to the economics of production, I suppose ;-):
Like the above, the watch makes a strong impression strapped on. I am not sure however whether this is due to the specific watch above with its fascinating combination of complications. Surely I admire its architectural simplicity combined with pronounced presence on the wrist!
So there we are from the early 1990s to the early 2010s - 20 years of Roger Dubuis Sympathie & Daughters:
Which one is your favourite? Cheers,
Magnus
P.S.: A bit later I will follow the ancestry of the Hommage collection!
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-10-26 11:19:20
Comments:
Mel August 31st, 2013-14:11
I prefer the original Sympathie case. I think it really exudes class and style in an understated fashion. The Sympathie 43 line was OK a little radical exaggeration in design for my tastes. The Monegasque is more in line with my tastes and I like its clean design elements. For me, the order o...
Ornatus-Mundi September 8th, 2013-23:19
Glad you liked it, but your Sympathie... is a watch one could die for! Excellent image of an exciting piece! Thanks for sharing, Magnus
stere September 2nd, 2013-02:48
I prefer... .... the Sympathie 43 Why? I don't know. For me this one has a sporty and a elegant look...the optimal size...perfect. Everything RD stands for. The real truth is: the Symathie 43 was on cover of an earlier RD catalogue and I had it for more than a year o...
Ornatus-Mundi September 8th, 2013-23:23
The Sympathie 43 is both a continuation and a departure it carries over the essence of the original Sympathie and adds a sporty touch to it. I was prepared to repudiate it when I saw the first images, but upon closer, personal inspection I really grew on me. Its one of those watches you want to take to the bea...
foversta September 2nd, 2013-11:49
Thanks a lot for this excellent post Magnus. For me, the original Sympathie is a masterpiece... so my choice is easy. The Monegasque case is a very valuable way to soften its style. Fx
Ornatus-Mundi September 8th, 2013-23:31
If you had a magnificent start like this collection... its always different to evolve and follow-up. They are icons which fix an expectation about a given collection. Another example would be the original Lange 1, I guess. Really difficult to improve on! Thanks, Magnus
Atlantajuice April 15th, 2014-18:56
Will own a RD soon... Tough choice for first I am new to the forum and really enjoy the expertise of the RD brand...I saw a Sympathy model which was different than the pictures shown earlier, with a bigger, more detailed bezel. Any idea what that might be..a follow up to Sympathy 43? I was leaning t...
AnthonyTsai September 4th, 2013-20:22
Wow great post Magnus! Monégasque To answer your question, my first choice would be the Monégasque. I find the lines of this case more soft but yet it still possesses the vintage feel and look as of the original Sympathie case. My 2nd would be the original Symphatie followed by the Sympat...
Ornatus-Mundi September 8th, 2013-23:27
Interesting thoughts about the third lug... Have you ever compared its wrist feel to a Hommage 43, or a Lang & Heyne? Cheers, Magnus
AnthonyTsai September 9th, 2013-06:12
Unfortunately haven't tried those on the wrist before
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Ornatus-Mundi
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Ornatus-Mundi
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