The 2012 SIHH PuristSPro Live Report

- Jon Z. (Z3)

Roger Dubuis 

For a brand that used to introduce many new designs every year, this year is relatively tame for one of my favorite brands at SIHH. 

The new line introduced this year is Pulsion, which features a combination of the traditional side of watchmaking (such as open-worked dial with Cote-de-Geneve pattern), and modern elements (e.g. raised sapphire crystal, rubber strap). 

For now, the line includes a chronograph and a skeleton tourbillon.

Here are the pieces from the Pulsion line, what do you think of them?

The short lugs and the rubber strap makes the watch comfortable to wear.

The new Excalibur 43mm - the watches now have a thinner profile. 

There are also 3 special dials introduced this year in the Excalibur collection - deep blue lapis lazuli, white mother of pearl, and black onyx.  These beautiful dials resonate strongly with me, and my favorite by far is the lapis.

The ladies' Velvet collection

The new Easy Divers

The Skeleton Double Tourbillon, this year in a titanium case with Black DLC coating.  

My overall feeling for RD, a brand that I am quite emotionally attached to, is a bit mixed this year. The Pulsion line is the centerpiece. Although it is certainly interesting and I can certainly understand why a lot of people would love it,  in my opinion it's really a lot of elements all merged into a dizzy watch. It feels a bit busy,  over-engineered, and does not highlight a particular bold design that RD watches of the past are so famously known for. 

In a way, even though the line wants to be futuristic and avant-garde, actually appears to me to be too "traditional" for a Dubuis. 

The new Excalibur on the other hand, represent bold RD design with wearability and an old-world elegance - great job!

Yours Truly,

Jon Z. (Z3)