Rolex 16660 - the triple 6
The Sea-Dweller is, without doubt, my favourite Rolex. Although I can define that love down to the 1665 reference, it is also true that the transition Rolex of 16660 – the Triple 6 - is also one of my very favourite watches to wear. Also true that on this forum there is plenty of love for the 666. This review will focus on the two 16660s that I own and their respective stories.
First, however, I think it is interesting to show how the 666 evolved. Rolex introduced the Sea-Dweller reference 1665 in 1967. It came about thanks to the collaboration between Rolex and the French diving company COMEX. The 1665 was effectively a professional diving watch, carrying the patented helium escape valve, a thick-profile crystal and a 2000ft depth rating. It was quite some watch to offer to the general public. Unlike the Submariner, the 1665 has a more prominent feature on the wrist….it just feels that much deeper and sturdier. By 1980, the 1665 was no longer in production.
The Sea-Dweller 16660 is the evolution of the 1665. It was produced from 1978 to about 1988. In the early years of production, the 16660 was made alongside the 1665, But the two watches were very different. The tested depth rating rose from 610m up to 1220m. The 16660 came with a sapphire crystal and a unidirectional bezel. It was also equipped with a new calibre – the 3035 (replacing the 1575 in the 1665). Further, the 16660 came with a larger and improved helium gas escape valve. The 16660 could have been equipped with an Oyster Fliplock ref 93150 or the Oyster Fliplock ref 93160. The early production was with the 93150.
Here is my 16660.
So, the 16660 was born. It is a beast of a watch. One of the big advantages that it has over the 1665 is that with the sapphire crystal and improved movement, the watch is essentially bomb-proof and very robust. It can be worn without any worries. I would argue that the 1665 is hardly a shrinking violet when it comes to toughness, but the transition to the 16660 made it a very practical watch for everyday wear. It has enough DNA to have that vintage look but at the same time it has many of the improvements that make it so easy to wear day-to-day. It is the best of both worlds.
My dilemma was deciding which 16660 to take. I will state right from the start that I have only ever bought two 16660s. And I still own both. But my entry into the 16660 world was with a rather special watch.
The collaboration with Comex resulted in a number of special order watches designed specifically for the French diving company. The 16660 was delivered to Comex between 1980-84. Watches were typically issued in batches. The 16660 came in two batches. The first 50 had a matte dial with the next 150 coming with a gilt dial. As such, one can say that the matte dial version is one of the very rarest varieties of Comex. Of the 50, some were damaged. Some were lost. In terms of how many have subsequently been back to Rolex for service, it is my understanding that around 30-35 are believed to be around. Maybe that number is high. Of all the various references that have been issued to Comex, the 16660 matte dial is truly one of the hardest to find. It is not impossible, but it is hard. What I liked about selecting this watch as my first 16660 was that it killed two birds with one stone. First, it covered the 16660 transition. But second, it also filled the place of a Comex watch for my collection. It was never my intention to accumulate Comex, so I wanted the version that I bought to have something special about it. The 16660 Matte Comex is certainly in that category.
Here is my 16660 Comex.
Yet, despite all this, I would have to say that I continued my hunt for another 16660. Reason? Well, these watches “can” take on astonishing patina. Every now and then one comes along with a truly breath-taking patina. I like all my watches to have full-kit original papers, so waiting for the right patina AND full-kit papers took some time. In fact, over three years before the right one came along. And then, I showed it to the resident vampire who concurred with me that it was just a must-buy. The watch literally growls. I had to have it. It is odd when a watch really hits the spot. This one really does it for me.
My version is one of the early ones. How can I tell? Well, the earlier dials came with a circular index, and were produced until about 1985. My serial number is 8.0m, placing it around 1983, so in line with the dial range. Latter dials came with a circular edge index – called “bicchierini” by the Italians. For the earlier dials, I believe there are two versions, the Mk1 and Mk2. My version is a Mk1 dial. How can I tell? Well, take a loot at the close scan of my dial. The Mk1 dial has the letter “f” not overlapping the letter “t”. This is not the case for the Mk 2 dial. My vertical line shows the Mk1 configuration. I would love to hear any other opinions on this configuration idea. The overlapping F or Long-F appears in later dials in my view. Curious to hear opinions if any.......
Why is it “evilesque?”
Well, I can think of a number of reasons. The watch itself is a true beast. As I have already mentioned, it has a very distinct presence on the wrist which is altogether different to the feel of a Submariner. It is more Rottweiler than Alsatian. Both tough animals, but the Rottweiler being just brawnier and more menacing to look at. Well, if you combine the fact that the watch is a beast and has a reference number with 666 in it, it is not so hard to see evilesque.
Within Rolex world, different watches do different things for me. I would have to say that the 16660 manages to bridge the gap between vintage and modern as well as any Rolex. I would also argue that it has that direct DNA link to the innovation of the helium escape valve that makes it place in Rolex history evident. Further, it has such a distinct presence on the wrist…..to me it is a perfect daily wearer. Bullet-proof. Just what you need if.....
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