Okay, so I admit it, I’m a sucker for a black watch. So when TAG Heuer announced their new 41mm “Black Phantom,” I couldn’t help but take notice. At a time when the new Carreras are commanding the spotlight, I was curious to see how TAG Heuer would continue improving the Aquaracer line. I’m happy to report that despite the success of the new Carrera Heuer 01, the Aquaracers undoubtedly remain relevant and a mainstay of the TAG Heuer lineup.

The team at TAG Heuer, USA was kind enough to send me a Black Phantom for review and after a few days with it, one thing became abundantly clear; the Aquaracer continues to evolve and even flourish, branching into almost niche markets that blurring the lines between utility and fashion.

First to impress me was TAG Heuer’s ability to carefully massage the details and create a visual presence that keeps you looking. To dismiss the Black Phantom simply as an all-black Aquaracer does a disservice to the watch and to the artisans who designed it. A close examination quickly reveals one interesting truth, that all black isn’t always black.

By incorporating an eclectic mix of finishes, details of the Black Phantom present a character that changes with each unique light environment. What reveals a distinct personality inside, under fluorescent lights, casts an entirely different look outdoors, in natural light. Sometimes the dial looks dark grey, sometimes with tinge of brown. Much of the time, the dial is all but lost in it’s own shadow, reminding you why this is called the Black Phantom.

The markers on the dial appear to be an almost black nickel finish. Actually, it’s a galvanic treatment the brand calls “Black Gold” and is anthracite rather than black nickel. Most interesting is that the dial receives the same “Black Gold” treatment but with the addition of a sandblasted texture. As a result, light reflects differently from each component, thereby providing contrast, making it surprisingly legible.

While luminescence on a black watch may seem contradictory, adequate lume is applied to the bezel and markers. While the lume may not be as striking as some pieces, I feel TAG Heuer found a nice balance that provides effective luminescence without compromising its all-black theme.

Inside the Black Phantom beats TAG Heuer’s Calibre 5 automatic. Based on the Sellita SW-200, the movement is similar to the ETA 2824. With a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour, it maintains a power reserve of around 38 hours.

For those who appreciate a streamlined design, the Black Phantom retains the venerable Aquaracer case that is sleek and fits comfortably under the cuff. 

The case and bezel are made from titanium with a matte black, titanium carbide finish: essentially, PVD.

Have you ever had that sudden panic of thinking, “oh, I forgot to put on my watch?” This thing is so light and comfortable, that I often found myself doing a wrist check to ensure I had it on.

At first, I questioned why TAG Heuer would go through the added expense of building this piece from titanium, especially at the Aquaracer’s price point. Normally, I would associate titanium with a larger watch, where a lightweight alloy is often a necessity. In the case of the Black Phantom, however, titanium simply adds to its “stealthiness,” not visually, but in terms weight that results in exceptional comfort.   

Though some may see the Black Phantom as more fashion than sport, make no mistake, the Aquaracer’s rugged construction has a proven track record for durability.

The screw-down crown and case back ensure a water resistance of 300 meters, making it perfect for active beachgoers.

The Aquaracer’s unidirectional bezel is practical in both design and function. Large numbers sink deep into the ceramic inlay. This relief provides a dimensionality that enhances legibility of the otherwise muted markings. The round insert is nested into a dodecagon bezel for an easy grip that is further enhanced by a series of six tiles along the outer circumference. Compared with others in the 40mm range, this is perhaps the easiest bezel to grasp.

The Black Phantom is harnessed with a nylon sports strap that is robust and comfortable. It is made from a plastic polyamide, a textile fiber that is all but impervious to the elements and equal to the rigors of daily wear.

Rather than being and flat lifeless, the TAG Heuer strap has a rubber core that creates a pleasant curve across its width. The inside lining has traditionally been cut from a thin layer of leather, but as of September, 2016, the brand is transitioning their nylon straps to a rubber lining. For a sports strap, this only makes sense as the rubber will provide better grip, keeping the watch from “rolling” on the wrist.

It’s also safe to assume that rubber will have better wear characteristics. In my experience, a quality rubber strap against the skin, once it warms to body temperature, stays in place and is simply more comfortable. Additionally, rubber will not absorb body oils resulting in staining or the unpleasant aroma often associated with NATO type straps or sometimes leather. This is particularly important for a sports strap.

The silver/gray stitching compliments the details of the dial, though I’d like to see this strap with black stitching. While I’m not sure which would look better, I yield my reservations to the keen eye and experience of the designers at TAG Heuer.

The clasp is a standard TAG Heuer deployant. Made from titanium components coated with the same titanium carbide as the case, it’s a secure, proven design. 

No surprises here.

With its all-black theme, the Black Phantom is remarkably legible in most light conditions. Even compared with more traditional Aquaracer siblings, details are quite pronounced.

With the Aquaracer Black Phantom, TAG Heuer has managed to create a model with the allure of a trendy fashion piece without conceding utility. It is practical and robust as one would expect from an Aquaracer, yet its slim lines and modest weight ensure it wears comfortably in a suit or on the beach.

For those looking for something unique, you can wear this with reasonable certainty that you won’t cross another at your local Starbucks. With a Limited Edition of only 2,500, TAG Heuer’s Black Phantom provides affordable exclusivity to collectors or fans of the brand.

As a dress watch or daily driver, this piece is a solid performer all around. After more than a week of wear, I found lots to respect and nothing to dislike about this watch. It’s light, it’s dark, it’s relatively rare and reasonably priced with an MSRP of $3,000 USD.

SPECIFICATIONS

DIAL

- Sandblasted anthracite dial with horizontal streak effect

- Black gold* hand-applied polished and faceted indexes with grey luminescent markers

- Black gold* polished and faceted hour and minute hands with grey luminescent markers

- Black gold* polished second hand

- Printed "TAG Heuer" logo

- " AQUARACER" & "CALIBRE 5 - AUTOMATIC - 300 m / 1000 ft" black lettering on the dial

- Printed minuterie on the dial

- Angled date window at 3 o'clock with a magnifying lens

CASE

- Case diameter: 41 mm

- Sandblasted black titanium carbide coated titanium Grade 2 case

- Unidirectional turning bezel with black faceted ceramic:

            Engraved, grey lacquered numerals

            SLN dot at 12 o'clock

            Black titanium carbide coated bezel

- Anti-reflective scratch resistant sapphire crystal

- Sandblasted black titanium carbide coated screw-in crown

- Sandblasted black titanium carbide coated titanium screw-in case back with diving bell engraving

- Water resistance: 300 meters

BRACELET

- Black nylon strap with grey stitching and black lining

- Black titanium carbide coated titanium folding clasp with safety push-buttons

MOVEMENT

TAG Heuer Calibre 5 (Swiss Made) Automatic calibre

- Diameter: 26 mm (11 ½''') — 25 to 26 rubies depending on the execution.

- Rapid date correction.

PERFORMANCE

- Balance frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz).

- Power reserve: 38 hours.

DISPLAY

- Hours — minutes — seconds.

- Date window.