SIHH 2017: Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture and Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer.
amanico
For once, I will compare two novelties, which were unveiled a few week ago, at the SIHH.
The Classico Manufacture houses the Cal UN 320 which is an automatic movement, with a silicium hair spring and anchor escapement, all in house, offering a power reserve of 48 hours and allowing a date setting forward AND backward, which is one of the brand's speciality.
The Classico Manufacture:
The Classico Manufacture houses the Cal UN 320 which is an automatic movement, with a silicium hair spring and anchor escapement, all in house, offering a power reserve of 48 hours and allowing a date setting forward AND backward, which is one of the brand's speciality.
The steel case is 40 mm big, and 9, 60 mm high, water resistant to 30 meters.
Last but not least, the dial is made in enamel grand feu.
The Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer:
Here we have another manual winding movement, the Cal UN 113, offering a power reserve of 60 hours, and, no surprise, a date setting of the annual calendar forward AND backward, as well.
The difference between the triple calendar, the annual calendar and the perpetual calendar is that, on the triple calendar, you have to change the date when the month doesn't end at 31, on the perpetual calendar, you never have to change the date, and on the annual calendar, you have to do it once in a year, at the end of February.
Now, the comparative picture, and the reason why I decided to introduce both of them in the same post...
The UN 113 features a silicium escapement and spring.
The case is typical from the Marine line, with these absent lugs. It is in steel, 43 mm big, and water resistant to 100 meters, which is what you expect from a watch called " Marine ".
The dial is made in enamel grand feu, too.
Now, the comparative picture, and the reason why I decided to introduce both of them in the same post...
Between these two, the Classico Manufacture would have been my choice... If only there was no date spoiling this superb dial.
Indeed, I fell in love with the case, these superb lugs, its dimensions, and, of course, its dial. If only...
Now, curiously, the same round and simple date is present, at the same place on the Marine Annual Calendar. But here, it is logical, consistent with the purpose of the watch; as we are in presence of an annual calendar.
So, I am not disturbed by it.
Of course I would have preferred a Grande Date, rather than this simple one. But it is not shocking.
And this blue enamel grand feu is sumptuous.
What are your thoughts on these two?
Best.
Nicolas
Comments:
piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1) February 13th, 2017-05:30
You said it all ;-) According to the position of the date, i assume the case might have been design 2 mm smaller. I am the guy who always take much care about the ratio caliber/case. However, a really nice elegant watch. Do you have any photos of both the movements?
amanico February 13th, 2017-05:34
You added it all. :) I don't have any picture of the movements, but I will take care of that asap. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, my friend. Nicolas
Alkiro1 February 13th, 2017-06:03
I have a true preference for the Classico. I particularly love the lugs which offer, in my opinion, a very nice "modern crab style". In addition, the Classico is much more dressy than the Marine (sportier style - definitely an UN choice I suppose) with a case size easiest to wear at least for me. The difference of indexes\' thickness has a great importance in my choice too. To conclude...
amanico February 13th, 2017-08:34
Yes, the lugs of the Classico are very appealing. A dressier offer, compared to the Marine.
Spangles - Dr. Tabby February 13th, 2017-06:13
These are both beautiful, I like the blue grand feu. Could someone explain the link between Ulysse Nardin and Russia, please?
amanico February 13th, 2017-08:35
Russia? Always a good market for the brand. This is my guess.
alphabeta81 February 13th, 2017-06:47
Absolutely stunning dials And on the date issue, I agree with you. On the annual calendar, it needs to have a date and actually a big date would have cut into that lovely dial more, so I like the small date,. On the Classico, there was no need for the date. I have talked to brands...
amanico February 13th, 2017-08:36
You have a point on the Grande Date. As for movements including a date, it is quite easy to remove the parts dedicated to the date. JLC does it very well with the Cal 956. With date on the TT Polaris, without date on the TT Deep Sea Alarm.
alphabeta81 February 13th, 2017-11:06
Good points on the JLC even if the brand said "no changing of the movement, no changing of the case or crown" - well they can just make the dial so it covers it up! Not rocket science! JLC did a nice job on the new sector dial chrono to not have the date vs the master chrono do...
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amanico
A view on Mo's very special Ulysse Nardin Sonata Cathedral.
amanico
Mo already posted some pictures of a watch he dreamt about, a very special Sonata Cathedral, with its silicium escapement and decoration on the dial. As you know, the Sonata Silicium was made in a limited edition of 500 pieces. Among these 500 pieces, a few were made with a special dial, or, more precisely, with dedicated red hands. 5 were planned, and-Mo, correct me if I am wrong- only 3 were finally produced.
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