Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014: A review on the Perpetual Manufacture
amanico
Foversta showed you a picture of an all new Perpetual Calendar during a cocktail held at the Ulysse Nardin Paris Boutique.
There was no press file at this time, for a good reason: The watch belongs to the Basel 2014 collection!
The case, dial, hands, crown and bezel are all redesigned, but this is a true, characteristic Ulysse Nardin Perpetual + GMT + Big Date.
The layout of the dial, the construction of the Perpetual Calendar + GMT is something very familiar for any Ulysse Nardin Fan, for the Perpetual Calendar lovers.
Which is not a surprise, since the movement is the same, the Cal U.N 32, already used for the former Perpetual Calendars.
The Cal UN-32:
I must say that I appreciate a lot UN Perpetual Calendars, as they are, in my opinion, the most friendly in the category.
Why? Simple! You can set the date forward and backward, without fear to break the movement, just by using the crown, while, on others, you have to use one or several pushers, and if you change the date during the " danger zone " time ( 9 PM / 3 AM ), you are done, your movement is broken, or at least, there are big chances it breaks.
Therefore, it is a GMT, which will be appreciated by the travelers among us.Here again, the two pushers on each side of the case makes it easy and friendly.
Nothing new, these specificities are shared by any Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar GMT.
Which is new is the aesthetics. And I must say I am pleasantly surprised!
I had a problem with the model which was former to th " El Toro ". The case, the bezel and the hands were too close to the Sonata, in fact, they were the same.
So, if you already owned the Sonata, getting the Perpetual Calendar may be disturbing... It may be.
Here is a photo of this former Perpetual Calendar GMT, Ref 329-60:
With the El Toro, you don't have the problem of a too close aesthetical proximity with the Sonata, even the Sonata Streamline:
The El Toro has a strong personality, with an unvaoidable counterpart... It may not be eveybody's taste.
With the new Perpetual Calendar GMT, the register is different...
The case is more conventional, as big as the El Toro ( 43 mm ) but more conventional, consensual.
The lugs are deliciously shaped, the dial is more discrete than on the El Toro or the former version, the skeleted hands are thinner, and the bezel is more sober than before.
The infinity symbol just above the mention " Perpetual " is a nice detail, too.
Less exhuberant than the El Toro, it gains in elegance, what it looses in character.
It is a limited edition of 250 in Platinum, and 250 pieces in Rose Gold.
The Rose Gold version:
Here are the live pictures I could take thanks to the kindness of the Paris Boutique:
Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,
Best,
Nicolas
This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-16 12:31:44 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-16 12:32:18 This message has been edited by pingtsai on 2014-03-16 15:26:32 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-20 15:24:49
Comments:
foversta March 16th, 2014-15:57
A more consensual timepiece... The watch looks much more classic than the other PC watches of the collection even if it keeps obviously the original lay-out of the dial. But more consensual doesn't mean lack of character: the size of the bezel, the large pushers and crown give a quite ...
amanico March 17th, 2014-08:26
I am quite seduced by this one, Fx. More than by El Toro, to say all. And this way, it is not too close to the Sonata Design. Good. Best, Nicolas
Sandgroper March 16th, 2014-17:22
Thank you Nicolas, very nice pictures and nice.... little review. I agree with you in regard to the and the similarities with the Sonata, these hands are splendid in my opinion but as you say, they should have been "reserved" for the Sonata. The El Toro is not my cup of camomille;) This later iteration i...
amanico March 17th, 2014-08:27
The 38 mm has a lot of charm, I must say. But this iteration is far from Being uninteresting... Tea or Camomille? ;) Best, Nicolas
Sandgroper March 17th, 2014-17:37
Bonjour Nico, I agree, this iteration is very nice..... I was only talking about the size. I really like the new dial and hands. Camomille, please;) Cheers Francois
amanico March 17th, 2014-23:00
5 mm difference, that counts a lot, for sure! No message body
Sandgroper March 18th, 2014-00:07
Well, if you are talking about the watch diameter, yes!
timerider March 16th, 2014-20:57
I am quite impressed and very happy that the larger wrist crowd is getting a 43mm with the classic design. I find the evolution here to be a tailored one, not radical and the watch exudes fine taste. The rotor has been refined and the sacred symmetry of the dial still shows the great originality of ...
amanico March 17th, 2014-08:29
Thanks for your feedback, Tim. Yes, please, have a look at it and come back to us!
Marcus Hanke March 17th, 2014-02:45
I am still undecided ... On the one hand, the larger diameter has some attractiveness, but the massive crown and pushers let it appear even larger than the 43mm diameter would suggest. Dial-wise, the windows for weekday and month are now very close together. I have to see it in f...
0-10-10
Load More Comments
Next Article
GLau
Arrival of the Serpent watch and a comparison between the Snake and Dragon enamel dials
GLau
Hi All, Following my last post about 10 months ago on the serendipity of getting my Ulysse Year of the Dragon watch (link below), another serendipitous event happened again for the Year of the Snake !! Photos of the brothers are attached. As someone born in the Year of the Dragon, I was happy and content to have this unique watch with a nice number out of 88. Upon researching more on the enamel work by Donze and the Serpent watch, I liked the Serpent more and more. Thinking more about the snake being referred ...
© 2017 - WatchProZine