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The Patrimony Contemporaine Excellence Platine (42mm)

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I have to be honest with you: I was very afraid by this Patrimony Contemporaine Excellence Platine when I read the Press release. 42mm!!! For a watch with a thin bzel, without a second hand... I found the Vacheron decision to propose a version with an enlarged case of this Patrimony Contemporaine quite surprising. I was expecting to see a watch with the famous "fried egg" syndrome, you know, when a watch has a large diameter and a thin height...

And when I wore it, it was a relief. Don't expect from me to tell you that this watch is the most balanced one around. In fact, there is something funny with it: at the same time, the Vacheron team decided to enlarge the case and the designer started to work to reduce the feeling of size!

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They managed to do it and it was not an easy task.

The reasons of this achievement are:

- the size of the indexes: they are long and thin and they contribute a lot in the reduction of the perceived size.
- the sand-blasted dial: a smoother dial would have been a mistake here. Sand-blasting "breaks" the uniformity of the dial. It is far from being monotonous.
- the shape of the dial by itself: it is not flat, it has downward curves close to the bezel.
- the shape of the lugs: they are short and curved making the strap very close to the case improving the feeling of "density" of the watch.
- the shape of the case: it is not straight and its complexity makes it very appealing.
- the case is thin but not than thin and absolutely not ultra-thin (7,3mm) so the ratio (diameter/height) is still acceptable.

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So when I put the watch on my wrist, I was very surprised: I almost had the same feeling than with the 40mm. Yes, you feel the difference but no, the watch doesn't seem to be less unbalanced.

The hands seem to be very simple but they aren't. First of all, they are efficient: you read the time very easily. Secondly, they both have two facets creating a nice light effect on the dial.

But... there is always a "but" in this kind of story, I found the 1120 movement a bit too small for the case size. Obviously, as this Patrimony Contemporaine is not a small second watch, you don't feel it dial side which is good news. The bad idea IHMO comes from Vacheron decision to put a see-through caseback.

Of course, maybe it would have been a pity not to see the very refined work on the 1120. I'm a fan of the Vacheron touch: the finishings are flawless and discret at the same time. Nothing too eye-catching, nothing similar to a X-Mas Tree, you always stay in this elegant style with the quality criteria of the Geneva Seal. The work on the rotor is beautiful... and useful: its hollowed finishings make the movement more visible and give the opportunity to enjoy a big Maltese cross.

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But in the context of this 42mm watch, I would have prefered a solid caseback with, for example, a nice engraving. The movement is not that small with a 28,40mm diameter... but it is for a 42mm watch.

We find again the classic performances of the 1120 with its unusual frequency (2,75hz), its 40 hours of power reserve (maybe a bit short now in the 2011 context).

Now, let's talk about the famous hallmark on the dial: the "PT950". Good idea or not? I don't have a clear answer about it. I find it far from the Vacheron way of thinking. Vacheron is not a brand which plays in the "show off" area. So why putting this hallmark on the dial? On the other side, it adds a detail on the dial which breaks its symmetry. So why not after all? It remains quite shy on the dial.

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With this Patrimony Contemporaine Self-Winding Excellence Platine (Vacheron won the contest of the largest watch name !!!), Vacheron managed to enlarge the size of the case without disturbing the overall balance. The watch looks smaller than it is actually despite a thin bezel. This LE of 150 watches is slender, elegant and more complex than it appears at first glance. But I would have prefered a solid caseback even if the 1120 is well finished.

I would like to thank a lot the Vacheron France team.

Fx

Comments:
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amanico September 14th, 2011-13:46
Still don't know what to think about this watch. Some negative " a prioris ", which have to be confirmed or infirmed by an " in the real " test. I'm still surprised to see VC betting on big sizes ( WT and this one ).... The WT, I saw it in the flesh, and this is a real no go for me, a big deception, eve... 
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respo September 14th, 2011-17:53
Well, I agree and disagree You are right, the new E.P. is more complex than it seems, and that, to me, seems to be pure VC -- deceptively simple. The movement is finshed perfectly but not too showy. To my eye, no one creates more seductive cases than VC. No matter how simple the wa... 
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WHL September 14th, 2011-20:13
I have no reservations about this watch at all..... The wristshot photo is truly superb. Thank you for the article and photos. I recognize that the 42 mm will be too big for some (just as the 40 mm of the Patrimony Contemporaine 81180 is too big), but for so many others, particularly in the US market, this... 
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small-luxury-world September 15th, 2011-00:18
If I look just on the numbers ... there are at least two, which are tooooo big. But maybe it is one of the watches, which have to be seen in the real world. I can imagine, it could be dangerous because of some nice details. My head says: No way! My heart says: Give it a try ... My banker ... 
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Ares501 - Mr Green September 15th, 2011-00:51
I really like it but... I can't understand nor accept that Pt 950 writing on dial... it just destroys overall magnificent appearance Thank you for pictures Sincerely Damjan
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219 September 15th, 2011-03:35
Love it - great photos, and a VC I truly like and would want to own. Not something I could write about a great deal of their line-up, but this one is stunning. Do prefer the exhibition back and the fact that 'YES' they have a free-sprung balance there. Love the rotor design as well. Brilliant and congrats to VC for this on... 
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Hororgasm September 15th, 2011-12:17
I love this watch And this is despite 1) what's with the gold extension on the rotor? Need to create more mass because of the semi skeleton effort on the rotor? Perhaps can conceal the extra bit rotor and spacer with a smaller show back. 2) size 42mm is ok with me, as it i... 
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Davo September 17th, 2011-01:17
Pure elegance They don't get much finer than that.
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BluNotte September 18th, 2011-20:46
Managed to see this when i was in Tokyo Would have been really perfect if it was a hand wound! As i am still hurting from the chance to own the original CEP PC back from 2006, i was initially overjoyed to hear the news of this release. But alas, the word remontage automatique came up, and the i... 
playtime September 20th, 2011-18:45
works for me!  No message body
0-10-10

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Survey of the Historiques Collection

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Vacheron Constantin originally developed the Historiques collection in the early 1990’s during the mechanical watch renaissance. These watches drew on Vacheron Constantin’s rich heritage of design, bringing classic designs such as the 4072, 4178, and Cioccolatone to a new generation of watch collectors. The collection faded from the catalog as the brand developed a better defined product lines (eg Malte, Overseas, Patrimony Contemporaine), but was resurrected as its own collection in 2007 with the Chronometer Royal 1907, which celebrated the 100th anniversary of the original Chronometer Royal pocket watch. Photo by samwan The initial run of 100 watches are distinguished by a red enamel 12 on the dial.


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