Patek Philippe

[Baselworld 2016] The Patek Philippe novelties have been released

 

 

Gentlemen,

Over these past few weeks, we've eagerly been waiting for that moment when Patek Philippe will unveil its 2016 novelties, and now here they are. The rumors conveyed that several references could receive quite significant changes this year. At the least I can say from the first steps into Baselworld 2016 is that it looks to be an extraordinary year.  I just can't wait to handle them in the next weeks, in order to be able to form my own opinions.

Right from the top, I think that the different new references, whether they are brand new models or additions to existing families, represent very well balanced choices and especially a wonderful evolution of the collection. Some of them are I think absolutely breathtaking.

The proof again that Patek Philippe is never where it is expected to be. In the end they are even much above that.

Secondly, the broad array of choices, considering their customers' cultural style diversity (wearing habits, sizes, colors...) have been very nicely taken into account. The borderline exercise consisting of taking into account clients' wishes and tastes as deciding whether it has to be included into the brand's DNA and future evolutions or not needs a lot of talent and historical background. In my opinion, Patek's crew has very cleverly mixed their vision of watchmaking evolution, something that history has proven they cherish and safeguard. 

The imperative need to respect and to be in line with their strong legacy is what leads Patek to "think" the evolution and not to follow it. In many stages of its past, the brand has been able to introduce light evolutions or more significant breaking freshness, always in a way that we are surprised many years or decades after that it has remained the epitome of elegance and refinement. Not always that impressive in the present but very so when looking back from a future distance.

I'm sure that some of the models presented this year will be part of this hall of fame.

I believe this year, they managed to bring us the best of both worlds: the design has evolved a step forward with the perfect touch of modernity without failing to remain classic pieces with gorgeous traditional artwork.

Patek Philippe's collection is very strongly built and all the pieces have in common this "classic" DNA which ages so well regardless of fads and gimmicks. This kind of conservatism, getting inspiration from but never copying the past and melted with discreet movement developments, has shown over the decades to be the keystone of the brand's reputation and explain why it is so desired today.

Well, I think you can sense the feelings I experienced with my first steps into the 2016 novelties.

Without further ado, here is the overview of the Patek Philippe 2016 new collection:

And to add a little more visibility, let's have a look at the significant models separately.

The 6300G-001 Grandmaster Chime

The outstanding Grandmaster Chime 5175 has left its anniversary dress to give birth this more sober 2016 version. I will do a more detailed review later in the year of the most complicated wristwatch made, reminding us that making complicated movements in a small space is important when dealing with watchmaking. This is were the challenge is. To fit 20 complications in such a volume is a true achievement.

The 5374P-001 Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar

On the case base we already saw in the 5370P last year, this new splendid model looks a little more contemporary compared to more classic references from the brand when dealing with Minute Repeaters.

The 5930G World Time Chronograph

In 39.5x12.8 mm, housing the 28-520 HU, it is a brand new watch - a combination of functions we haven't had for a long time in the collection. More to come later of course.

The 5230G and 5230R World Time

In 38.5mm, housing the 240 HU. I think this may be my favorite, especially with the dramatic dial center, the stunning hands and the beautiful lugs which bring a lot of charm to the sober case. A perfect combination of classic and modern, in my opinion.

The 5327G, 5327J and 5327R

In 39mm, housing the 240Q. Just as the 5140 had the 5127's case style, so the new 5327 is sharing the aesthetical design of the 5227. As I said earlier, it is a gorgeous case and certainly one of my 2 or 3 favorites in the collection. It will be easier to see in a later dedicated post.

The 5170R with Silvery and Black dial

I think this variation will bring a lot of charm to the watch compared to the cleaner G versions. Something I really wish to see in the metal soon.

The 5396G and 5396R with new dial (Grey sunburst and Silvery with both Breguet numerals)

The previous version with applied markers is still available next to this 2016 aesthetical evolution. This dial color is new and is something we haven't seen since the 5960P Grey dial was discontinued a few years ago. Nice to see it back again.

This version has been launched to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Annual Calendar invention (the 5035's first version was presented in Basel in 1996).

The 5140P-017 with a new Grey dial (as the 5396G)

It is maybe the last version before it says "goodbye". A model that will remain a very fine example of romantic classic.

The 5204R

It looks stunning this way.

The Aquanaut 5164R-001

For people who wish to bring their sportive Auquanaut Dual Time to dressier events.

The 5496P-015 with a brushed grey dial

And you'll notice, in the video, the kind of "champlevé" figures on the date, which is an interesting new detail on this reference.

The 5950R-001

Very elegant and what a nice case to push forward again.

The 5539G-010 Minute Repeater with blue dial

A true and delicate marvel in my opinion.

The 5939R

And its unique complicated movement

The 6002G

This appears in another outfit varying from the blue dial we knew previously.

And of course, you may want to have a look at the video presentation of the new references. It is a far better way to have a look at the fantastic case work and also the new dials decoration:

And here is a second video about the "Rare Handcrafts Timepieces" collection:

You can also have a look at the 2016 novelties on Patek Philippe's website: www.patek.com


I will present the main novelties with further details and my first thoughts in separate dedicated threads in the following days so we can discuss them and share our first impressions. The "live" pictures will come later from me but our fellow purists in Basel will certainly share some before.

Let's discuss about your very first impressions, before going into details in the next few days!

Cheers, Mark


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This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2016-03-24 08:59:01