PIAGET Rose Passion Watches and Jewellery - part 3 - Gem-set Watches

Through this mini-series about the Technique and Aesthetique of the Piaget Rose Passion Collection, we will explore cloisonné enamel, 'petticoat-style' setting, meshwork, chaton and glyptic work. Many of the jewellery techniques and tools were adopted for watchmaking during the evolution of luxury goods market. In this report, we focus on the gem-setting techniques of the Piaget Rose Passion watches.

In the late 1960s, the serti juponné (‘petticoat’-style) setting technique was derived from the classic claw setting. The technique was adopted early on by Piaget. It provides ample volume to each piece of jewellery but requires great technical complexity since each stone must be carefully calibrated and the setting involves accurate adjustment.

The baguette-cut stones appear to undulate like a corolla, reflecting the light and exploring the contrast between diamonds and yellow, orange or pink sapphires, which whirl around the dial.

Piaget Rose Passion watch.

Case in 18K white gold set with 64 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 3.5 ct) and 48 yellow sapphires (approx. 3.5 ct).
Buckle set with 26 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.1 ct).

Piaget 56P quartz movement
Ref. G0A39152

Piaget Rose Passion watch.

Case in 18K white gold set with 64 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 3.5 ct) and 48 pink sapphires (approx. 3.5 ct).
Buckle set with 26 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.1 ct).

Piaget 56P quartz movement
Ref. G0A39153

Piaget Rose Passion watch.

Case in 18K white gold set with 64 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 3.5 ct) and 48 orange sapphires (approx. 3.5 ct).
Buckle set with 26 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.1 ct).

Piaget 56P quartz movement
Ref. G0A39154

Piaget watch production is now almost equally divided between Gents’ and Ladies’ models and they are offered in plain or gem-set variants.  Although the integrated Manufacture has brought all the decorative arts under one roof in Geneva, there are different gem-setters dedicated to either watches or jewellery.

Using grain-set, channel-set, closed-set, chaton-set and invisible-set gems, the gem-setters created exquisite pieces for the Piaget Rose Passion Collection.

Details of the gem setting technique are referenced to previous articles below.

Closed (chaton) and Invisible setting

Piaget Rose Passion Collection.
Limelight Dancing Light, 39mm.

Case in 18K pink gold set with 150 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 2.1 ct).
Buckle set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.1 ct). Piaget 56P quartz movement.
Ref. G0A39172

Piaget Rose Passion watch.

Case in 18K pink gold set with 24 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.8 ct), 11 brilliant-cut cognac diamonds (approx. 1.4 ct) and 10 marquise-cut diamonds (approx. 4.8 ct).
Dial set with 76 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.3 ct). Clasp set with 44 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.2 ct). Piaget 56P quartz movement.
Ref. G0A39265

Piaget Rose Passion watch.

Case in 18K white gold set with 35 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 2.1 ct) and 10 marquise-cut pink sapphires (approx. 5.4 ct). Dial set with 76 brilliant-cut
diamonds (approx. 0.3 ct).
Clasp set with 44 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.2 ct). Piaget 56P quartz movement.
Ref. G0A39267

With their ultra-thin movements, Piaget watchmakers could show their skill in creating watches inside gold coins that looked unchanged from the outside. This attracted the attention of customers who liked the idea of a secret watch.  This tradition has continued with secret watches that look like ornate bracelets.

Closed watch

Piaget Rose Passion secret watch.

Case in 18K white gold set with 667 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 8.3 ct) and 1 pink sapphire (approx. 0.4 ct).
Clasp set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.2 ct). Piaget 56P quartz movement.
Ref. G0A39281

Opened watch

Closed watch

Piaget Rose Passion secret watch.

Case in 18K white gold set with 667 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 8.3 ct) and 1 purple sapphire (approx. 0.4 ct).
Clasp set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.2 ct). Piaget 56P quartz movement.
Ref. G0A39280

Opened watch

The new Piaget Rose Passion collection is based on a luminous choice of colourful and precious stones (yellow diamonds, emeralds, pink sapphires) as well as hard stones (chrysocolla, chrysoprase, chalcedony), with a predominance of pink, echoing the colour of the flower, and green for a fresh touch. The rose has special significance for Piaget and the Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais.

Although this is primarly a horology forum, we have to appreciate the watches in the context of their setting in the whole Collection. For ladies, the watches are not stand-alone accessory but a complementary part of the assembled 'Look'. The choice of precious metal and gem colour combination is an essential start. The ability to extend the use from Day to Night and from Casual to Formal is helpful but not essential. What is essential is a cohesive theme.

Piaget has lavished the full force its expertise and jewellery-making skill on this especially large collection, since it comprises 100 pieces embodying a wealth of creativity. It encompasses watches, jewellery and High Jewellery items, connected by the theme of the rose and the spirit of Joséphine instilled in each piece.

Entirely manufactured in Piaget’s jewellery workshops, the collection features jewellery items that can be worn in many different ways, such as hair combs and tiaras, as well as the brand’s cherished cuff-watches and secret watches. For this occasion, it rediscovers the classical techniques of High Jewellery and all the artistic crafts of which the creative sensitivity is successfully associated with jewellery-making precision.

PIAGET Technique & Aesthetic: Part 3 - Gem-setting (Watchmaking)
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PIAGET Rose Passion Watches and Jewellery - part 1 - Empress Josephine and Malmaison
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PIAGET Rose Passion Watches and Jewellery - part 2 - Cloisonné Dial
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PIAGET Rose Passion Watches and Jewellery - part 3 - Gem-set Watches

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