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Vacheron Constantin: Chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in Pink Gold

foversta
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It is not a big surprise. A few months after the presentation of the Chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in platinum that I described in this article, Vacheron Constantin unveiled a pink gold version. I will not describe with details this watch since it has basically the same features than the platinum version: only the case, indexes and hands material or color change. But I take the opportunity of the ability I had to handle it a few days ago to display some pictures taken at the boutique of the Rue de la Paix in Paris.


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I briefly remind you that this chronograph, inspired by a historic piece of Vacheron Constantin (the reference 6087), has a case diameter of 38,5mm that highlights the famous long lugs whose shape gives its name to the watch (Cornes de Vache means cow horns in French). The chronograph offers a presence on the wrist which is much larger than its case diameter may suggest. It is also the proof of a paradox. Despite its "vintage" design clearly inspired by the past and the particular shape of the lugs, it seems very original in the current watchmaking world.

 

An important feature of the chronograph is the use of the movement 1142 which is an evolution of the traditional 1141 based on the Lemania 2310. The finish of the movement 1142 is above the usual standards of the 1141 but the main difference comes from the technical side since the frequency was increased from 2.5 to 3hz. The power reserve remains at 48 hours and since the movement has a similar size to the 1141 one, this frequency increase is mainly based on the reduction of the balance wheel diameter (which is free-sprung in the context of the 1142).


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The main question is to guess what is the most attractive version. I must confess I have some difficulties to answer this question. The pink gold version enhances the traditional design of the chronograph and becomes undoubtedly warmer and more refined. The contrast between the case and the dial underlines more clearly the shape of the lugs. The platinum version is more sober and seems more contemporary.


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The price difference between the two watches is therefore significant since the rose gold version is sold in France at the price of 57,600 euros VAT included while the price tag of the platinum one reaches 74,400 euros. A difference of nearly 30% for me that tipped the balance toward the gold watch which is just as attractive as its platinum sister but for different reasons. By putting it on the wrist, the charm and refinement hit the target and even though I feel that it is less versatile due to the color of its case, it remains quite suitable to a more casual context thanks to its complication, the pushers and the dial lay-out.


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Anyway, either in platinum or in pink gold, the Chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is one of the finest handwind chronographs of the haute horlogerie segment. Its movement is perhaps not as spectacular than the Datograph one and its performances are below compared to those of more recent calibers (power reserve and not a jumping minute counter). But who cares in the end? Once on the wrist, the beauty and the power of seduction of this chronograph make it irresistible.


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Thanks to the team of the Vacheron Constantin boutique of the rue de la Paix in Paris.


Fr.Xavier


This message has been edited by foversta on 2016-08-14 03:33:12

Comments:
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COUNT DE MONET August 13th, 2016-14:51
surely the best looking chrono to me it has got the same diameter as Patek's 5170 and the shares the same thinness but while the 5170 looks a it "bloated" due to Patek's effort to make the 5170 look bigger or more elegant with the (overly) slim bezel, this VC CdV is by far more balanced look... 
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vitalsigns August 13th, 2016-14:57
Patek is +1 mm bigger, I believe, but I do think the bezel and lug proportions of the VC are much better than on the 5170 The 5170 remains a very nice watch, through, with a more modern, upgraded movement. The plain baton hands need to change, however.
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COUNT DE MONET August 13th, 2016-15:07
true: +1 mm for the 5170 ... also true on the movement ... but the scalling of the 5170 is ... not soooo good!  
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amanico August 13th, 2016-14:58
The WOW factor which came with the platinum is less important with the RG, indeed. It will be a matter of taste and budget. With a 30% more important ticket, the platinum is madly priced. While the rose gold is in the ( high ) average budget. You are right, the rose gold is more retro looking, while the platinum is more " polyvalent ". ... 
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COUNT DE MONET August 13th, 2016-15:05
the movement is in-house: Roger Dubuis had the sole rights on it ... RD was aquired by Richemont ... VC uses it exclusively now  
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foversta August 13th, 2016-15:11
yes it is produced in-house but its roots come from the Lemania base.  
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amanico August 13th, 2016-23:34
What I understood.  
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COUNT DE MONET August 14th, 2016-01:48
with the 5070, in particular, and others using them it was not an issue at all, and "perceived" as in-house anyway: VC version of this Lemania base is certainly collectible
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amanico August 13th, 2016-23:34
Yes and no. Lemania ebauche, from what I understood.  
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jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) August 13th, 2016-19:55
I think I prefer this Rose Gold version the price is more reasonable and accessible and the look is a lot warmer and retains some of the vintage charm of the predecessor. Thanks for the fantastic photos and review Fx! Cheers Robin
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foversta
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Hands on review of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time

foversta
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As you know, the new Overseas collection was unveiled this year at the SIHH. This new collection was made of 2 basic watches: one three hands watch and one chronograph. I will not forget to mention that two ultra-thin watches in gold were the "precious" addition to this collection with a two hands piece and a Perpetual Calendar. But in my mind, something was missing: a true travel watch.


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