It is not a big surprise. A few months after the presentation of the Chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in platinum that I described in this article, Vacheron Constantin unveiled a pink gold version. I will not describe with details this watch since it has basically the same features than the platinum version: only the case, indexes and hands material or color change. But I take the opportunity of the ability I had to handle it a few days ago to display some pictures taken at the boutique of the Rue de la Paix in Paris.
I briefly remind you that this chronograph, inspired by a historic piece of Vacheron Constantin (the reference 6087), has a case diameter of 38,5mm that highlights the famous long lugs whose shape gives its name to the watch (Cornes de Vache means cow horns in French). The chronograph offers a presence on the wrist which is much larger than its case diameter may suggest. It is also the proof of a paradox. Despite its "vintage" design clearly inspired by the past and the particular shape of the lugs, it seems very original in the current watchmaking world.
An important feature of the chronograph is the use of the movement 1142 which is an evolution of the traditional 1141 based on the Lemania 2310. The finish of the movement 1142 is above the usual standards of the 1141 but the main difference comes from the technical side since the frequency was increased from 2.5 to 3hz. The power reserve remains at 48 hours and since the movement has a similar size to the 1141 one, this frequency increase is mainly based on the reduction of the balance wheel diameter (which is free-sprung in the context of the 1142).
The main question is to guess what is the most attractive version. I must confess I have some difficulties to answer this question. The pink gold version enhances the traditional design of the chronograph and becomes undoubtedly warmer and more refined. The contrast between the case and the dial underlines more clearly the shape of the lugs. The platinum version is more sober and seems more contemporary.
The price difference between the two watches is therefore significant since the rose gold version is sold in France at the price of 57,600 euros VAT included while the price tag of the platinum one reaches 74,400 euros. A difference of nearly 30% for me that tipped the balance toward the gold watch which is just as attractive as its platinum sister but for different reasons. By putting it on the wrist, the charm and refinement hit the target and even though I feel that it is less versatile due to the color of its case, it remains quite suitable to a more casual context thanks to its complication, the pushers and the dial lay-out.
Anyway, either in platinum or in pink gold, the Chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is one of the finest handwind chronographs of the haute horlogerie segment. Its movement is perhaps not as spectacular than the Datograph one and its performances are below compared to those of more recent calibers (power reserve and not a jumping minute counter). But who cares in the end? Once on the wrist, the beauty and the power of seduction of this chronograph make it irresistible.
Thanks to the team of the Vacheron Constantin boutique of the rue de la Paix in Paris.
Fr.Xavier
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