The partnership between Bucherer and the brands that are sold in its stores is growing, and new models are being featured on a regular basis in the famous retailer's Blue Editions collection. Moser is one of the brands that have already contributed to this collection and is back on stage at the end of this year with two new pieces: the Endeavor Diamonds Bucherer Blue Editions and the Heritage Bucherer Blue Editions. I want to go back with more details to the latter because it marks an important step for Moser by proposing a different aesthetic approach.
At first glance, it seems difficult to associate this watch with the Blue Editions collection, since on the dial side, it has no blue element. It is from the movement side that the link can be made. The uniqueness of the Heritage Bucherer Blue Editions lies in the fact that this is the first time that Moser, in its current period, adopts the codes of an "aviator" watch. It is neither a reedition nor a clone of a model of the past. On the other hand, it draws its inspiration from several watches manufactured at the beginning of the last century and which are visible within the Brand Museum.
I thus find the traditional codes of such approach: luminescent numerals using a retro font, hands which are also luminescent, a steel case with a respectable diameter of 42mm, a (flattened) onion-shaped crown and relatively fine wire lugs. The Moser touch is found in the finish of the dial which offers a beautiful grey fumé background.
The finish of the dial and hands is irreproachable. The numerals are neatly displayed, the hands are very attractive and the fumé dial style hits the mark once again. The brand inscription accentuates the retro side of the piece and the peripheral railroad effectively fills the dial.
The case is also original in the Moser context because of the shape of the wire lugs and of the crown. I particularly appreciated the latter. It brings character, it is consistent with the style but it doesn't appear as imposing.
In fact, the highlight of the watch lies in the contrast between the outdated approach of the dial and the resolutely current design of the movement. The movement which powers the Heritage Bucherer Blue Editions is the HMC-200 automatic caliber with a 3hz frequency and a respectable 72-hour power reserve. Its modern architecture is highlighted by the blue finishes of 3 mobile elements and justifying its belonging to the Bucherer collection: the balance wheel, the crossing balance bridge and the winding mass so bear this color. Its own diameter of 32mm allows it to properly fill the case which is nice to watch. The finish is very clean. Personally, I'm not a fan of the blue winding mass but it has at least the merit of being well distinguished.
The watch is sold with a kudu leather strap that goes well with the dial. Note the blue lining of the bracelet.
I found this watch successful. It unveils a new facet of Moser, it fits in the Blue Editions collection without falling into ease (a blue dial on an existing model) and the performance of the movement is excellent. Although its aesthetic approach is unusual for Moser, it is still classic. It reminds me of the Zenith Pilot Type 20 or the Patek 5522A. In fact, in some ways, it even evokes a cross between these two watches, the hands of one being found on the dial of the other. In this context, I might have liked that Moser uses a little more daring attitude to distinguish itself visually speaking of its colleagues. But fortunately, the watch has enough assets to seduce as it is presented. Moser is a brand with consistent quality and we can feel it with this piece.
The Moser Heritage Bucherer Blue Editions is available in the Bucherer boutiques and in the Paris one with a price of 11,350 euros including tax which positions it among the most affordable Moser.
+ a new aesthetic approach for Moser
+ the dial finish
+ the contrast between the two sides of the watch
+ the performance of the HMC-200 movement
- a touch of originality on the dial would have been welcome
- I'm not a fan from an aesthetic point of view of the blue winding mass