Angelus has decided to revisit its past through a new collection, called La Fabrique. And the first opus of this collection is a not well known but highly charming piece from the 60's, the Chronographe Médical, with William Massena's collaboration.
The vintage Medical Chronograph was quite original, as it allowed the doctors to measure their patients' pulse ( pulsometer ) AND also respiration ( asthmometer ). If there were several watches which included a pulsometer, I didn't know of others which included an asthmometer, too. ( Credit: Uhren Kosmos )
The case was 37 mm big, which was a quite common size at that time, and the plexy added a magnifier to enhance the legibility of the two important medical measures, which was very smart.
The movement was a modified Valjoux 22. and came in two versions, a monopusher and the more classic two pushers chronograph, both being monocounter, only dedicated to the small seconds. The chronograph minute subdial has been removed because it would have disturbed the legibility of the respiration and pulse scales. Logical and well thought.
The dial had a lot of charm, with its small seconds subdial and its two arrows pointing to the respective scales. While the asthmometer is all painted in red, the pulsometer has a color code: Green: Great, Black: Correct. Red: Dangerous. ( Credit: Craft and Tailored )
The re edition is faithful to the original, with some modern changes:
1/ The case is 2 mm bigger ( 39 mm )now. But the lugs and the crown are very close to the original. Being only 9, 22 mm high, it is not only quite thin, it is also well proportioned. Good point.
On the wrist, it sits very well:
2/ The small seconds subdial is much more centered, in comparison with the original, which is the double consequence of a bigger case and a small movement.
3/ Exit the plexy for a modern sapphire, WITHOUT the charming and original magnifier over the pulsometer.
4/ The movement, which is now a superb manual winding movement from La Joux Perret, you know, the movement we had in some marvels from the Past such as the Cartier Tortue Monopusher or the Ulysse Nardin Chrono monopusher from the late 90's. The movement is quite small, with a diameter of 29, 4 mm for a height of 4, 20 mm, beating at 21, 600 vibrations per hour, and with a power reserve of 42 hours. You know how much I love this movement. Here, it is nicely decorated and finished, with Côtes de Genève, bevels and chamfered wheels.
Like the modified Valjoux 22 in the original, the re edition is a one minute Chronograph.
5/ The see-through case back has replaced the solid case back. I am not a fan of sapphire case backs, except when there is something interesting to see, which is the case here.
I must say that I fell under the charm of this Chronographe Médical, and I have to congratulate William Massena and Angelus for this one.
Still, I have some reserves, which you can guess if you are still reading me:
-> The price, quite " salty ": 19, 900 CHF.
-> I would have the guts to keep the 37 mm case, in order to " decenter " the small seconds subdial.
-> I would have also kept the magnifier over the pulsometer, as it was one of the main characteristics of this watch.
-> The fact that it is a limited edition of 99 pieces. An unlimited edition would have been better, in my opinion.
Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts on this one,
Best,
Nicolas