New Jaeger Lecoultre Duometres. Some thoughts.
amanico
Let's see the first two, here, through some questions: Are they really new? Are they true Duometres?
Before answering these questions, let me confess that I see these two watches through the eyes of a fanatic, a hard core fan of the Duometre since Jaeger Lecoultre issued it in 2007, which led me to order it as soon as I came back from the SIHH. So my opinion will certainly be seen as biased, and yes, I have to confess that it is, totally. But as often, I speak with my heart, so my feelings are sincere, as we cannot cheat with Passion, right?
1/ The Case:
Jaeger Lecoultre claims that the Duometre line receives a new case. Here, the brand plays with words: Yes, the Duometre case has changed, but it is not really a new case, as it has been taken and reworked from the Master Grande Tradition Family, obviously.
The current Master Grande Tradition case is, in my opinion, superb, refined and class. It is a major improvement compared to the first and second generation of Master Grande Tradition, that is certain.
Now, if we compare the current Duometre case to the former one, can we say it is a real improvement?
The former:
Aesthetics is always subjective. Some will prefer the current one, others ( like me ) will favor the former one. Personally, I would have reworked the former case, with thinner lugs, and a less thick case.
The current:
Let's compare the proportions, too:
The current QL is 42, 5 mm big ( 0, 5 mm or 2 mm bigger than the former ones, which were issued in 40, 5 and 42 mm versions ). If you go for a " new " case, you try to master the proportions in a more harmonious way, with maybe a smaller diameter, and, most importantly, a less high one ( 13, 05 mm for the current one versus 13, 50 mm for the former one, and 13, 2 mm for the 40, 5 mm).
Same can be said for the Chronograph Moon, with its 42, 5 mm diameter and 14, 2 mm height ( versus 42 mm and 13, 47 mm for the former Duometre à Chronographe, which was strangely a bit thicker in its open dial version: 13, 60 mm ).
Ok you will tell me that the new one is a combination of a chronograph, a moon phase and a day / night indicator, but still... They could have opted for a thinner case, especially if you want to play the card of elegance.
AND don't tell me it is because of the movement thickness: For example, the Cal 381 of the Duometre QL is 7, 25 mm high. They could have removed 2 mm to the case... Ok, the convex shape of the glass is partially responsible for this case thickness, but still...
The biggest issue I have with the current case is that it is not a case which is specific to the Duometre, but which belongs to the Master Grande Tradition line. As if Jaeger Lecoultre wanted to get the Duometre back into line. The former Duometre case was part of the DNA of this line. This is not the case anymore. I strongly regret that.
2/ THE DIALS AND MOVEMENTS
Let's start with the Quantième Lunaire. The new one has a blue dial, which is hard to judge from official ( but also " real " photos ). I will be prudent here, as I find the blue a bit flat but I will reserve my judgement till I see it in person.
A good point is that they opted for the plain dial, and not for these partially open dials which never were my taste.
The other good point is that they kept the DNA of a Duometre dial, here. With some slight changes, such as the main dial which is subtly grained, and the subdials which receive a sunray decoration. The moon phase finish is better than the " paper " one, on some of the former QL. But the QL Enamel received a very nice moon phase and its dial still is hard to beat, in my opinion and heart.
The 40, 5 mm QL Enamel:
The current one:
As for the Chronograph Moon, it is a different story... As I mentioned above, I don't like partially open dials for a Duometre. So, personally, it does nothing to me. I understand that some may like it, no problem with that. Colors and tastes...
The rose gold is more consistent than the platinum, in my opinion, for a factual reason.
On the rose gold, the hands dedicated to the Chronograph are blued. A Duometre à Chronograph detail, which is respected on the rose gold, but which is curiously absent on the platinum version whose minute and hour chronograph hands are not blue or in another different color...
Both " QL " and Chronograph Moon dial contours are convex, following the shape of the glass, which is a nice detail, in my opinion.
I will shortly mention the movements as there is not much to say. The Cal 381 of the Quantième Lunaire is exactly the same as the movement housed in the former " QL ".
The Cal 391 of the new Duometre Chronograph Moon is new only because it receives a modular moon phase and night and day on a Cal 380. Is this enough to state that it is a new movement? I will let you judge on that matter.
The thing is that I don't understand the interest of the night and day indicator, here. Indeed there is an interest if the night and day is linked to a date or to a perpetual calendar. Here, it is not the case. So where is the interest?
One thing which intrigues me a bit is that it seems that one barrel is dedicated to the Chronograph and the Moon Phase, while the other is related to the Time and the Night and Day. So, Jaeger Lecoultre thinks that adding a complication to the Time or to a Chronograph will not " pollute " their accuracy? I would be curious to know that.
The other thing which may be problematic is to properly set the moon phase on this watch, due to the absence of moon phase markers...
And the last thing which is a personal regret is that the Duometre movements seems to use a different metal than German Silver, now. German Silver developed a nice patina, with time passing. A change I don't understand IF they gave up with German Silver.
3/ GENERAL THOUGHTS:
Are the new Duometre nice watches? They are, but not for me.
As I elaborated, because the case should be specific to the Duometre line, and not borrowed to another line. Also because the dials are not what I expected in terms of aesthetics.
BUT the biggest problem is that I expected better. Maybe I expected too much after such a long wait.
For example, at 48, 000 Euros for the steel QL, we are close to the price of the former QL in... Gold? In alchemy, you transform lead into gold. Jaeger Lecoultre changes gold in.. Lead. Is that the true meaning of " Golden Ratio "?
AND... At this level of price, I expected something more ambitious. A Chrono Perpetual Calendar, or a Chrono Rattrapante would be correctly priced around 70 / 80 K Euros in gold. Not a simple moon phase and a useless day night, not even a longer power reserve...
As I said, this is the biased opinion of a Duometre Hard Core Fan...
Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,
Best.
Nicolas
Comments:
Gelato Monster May 21st, 2024-09:38
Personally complete disappointment Lack of taste (salmon opened) and lack of passion and ingenuity (the rest). Undeservingy lazy.
Gelato Monster May 21st, 2024-11:00
If I may be honest. You can delete it as you wish my friend Please keep the undeservingly lazy 🙂
amanico May 21st, 2024-11:29
No, no way. I will not delete any comment, I never did. I will not start with you. We are here to discuss, and to share our own views.
Gelato Monster May 21st, 2024-12:10
🙂 thank you I think I am sincerely disappointed and have to much believe and expectations toward such a great naming of The Watchmaker of Watchmakers
Alfihar May 22nd, 2024-04:36
+1 It’s unfortunately true… JLC has run out of inventiveness and now thinks in terms of margins (new color for dials, reuse of existing caliber/design, slight cosmetic modifications, price increases inversely proportional to emotion...). Best Ø
J K May 21st, 2024-09:46
I agree with your thoughts. 1st generation is far superior IMHO. More pure. And my top favorite is the one with Grand Feu dial. Thanks for sharing, Nicolas.
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