SIHH 2019: First live pictures and thoughts on the Jaeger Lecoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon 39 Guilloché Blue Enamel.
amanico
After the unveiling of the Master Ultra Thin Moon steel, in 2011 and the black dialed version in 2015, Jaeger Lecoultre gives birth to a new iteration of this reference, in white gold, this time, and most importantly, with an original guilloché blue enamel dial.
The black dialed version from 2015:
And the brand new guilloché enamel version from this year.
Compared to the former " MUT Moon ", this new member of the family has a slightly thicker case, due to the presence of the enamel dial. With a height of 10, 04 mm, it is indeed a bit less than one millimeter thicker.
But the " pièce de choix " on this watch is its dial, of course. First, you are working on the guilloché of the dial, which is pretty fastidious. I tried to do some " lines "at the métiers rares workshop, it is a real work of patience and takes a lot of time, at it is hand made.
The Master Ultra Thin Moon in steel from 2011:
The black dialed version from 2015:
And the brand new guilloché enamel version from this year.
Compared to the former " MUT Moon ", this new member of the family has a slightly thicker case, due to the presence of the enamel dial. With a height of 10, 04 mm, it is indeed a bit less than one millimeter thicker.
In order to keep the elegant lines and proportions of the case, the Manufacture reworked the lugs, in a subtle way.
With such a height, it is now hard to say that the case is still ultra thin, but the profile is pleasant to the eye, and very class.
But the " pièce de choix " on this watch is its dial, of course. First, you are working on the guilloché of the dial, which is pretty fastidious. I tried to do some " lines "at the métiers rares workshop, it is a real work of patience and takes a lot of time, at it is hand made.
Then you execute the enameling stage, which is another challenge, but Jaeger-Lecoultre overcomes this technique... I made some researches, and I found that the Manufacture had some enamel pieces till 1945, the last one being a Reverso, and started with enamel dials again in 1995 with... Another Reverso, the famous " Mucha ".
So, it is now more than 24 years that the Grande Maison makes enamel dials without interruption.
Once you have your dial " cooked " in the oven, you apply the indices, the JL Logo, you install the ring of the date. This ring is engraved, with laser textured numbers, so to give to the whole dial a tri-dimensional look.
Then you put the hands, which are dauphine shaped. And you house the movement.
Then you put the hands, which are dauphine shaped. And you house the movement.
Did you know that Guilloché and Enamel is not a " première" for Jaeger-Lecoultre?
I cannot date this pocket watch for ladies, my guess estimate would be in the 30's or 40's, but as you can see, it existed!
As for the movement, the Cal 925/2, it received a big technical improvement. While the former power reserve was about 40 hours, it has been dramatically increased to 70 hours.
Only two watches from the 2019 collection takes the benefit of such an improvement, this one and the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar Guilloché Blue Enamel. But no doubt that some others will come.
I will work on that topic in a technical way when I come back to the Manufacture, in a few months. The Cal 925/2, encased:
That being said, I was impatient to see these guilloché blue enamel dials in the " metal " to have a final impression on them.
And they are not disappointing.
First of all, the catch the light, they play with it, due to the combination of the Guilloché and the blue enamel. It is pretty fascinating.
Then you have an indisputable feeling of quality. Almost preciosity.
And to end, a sheer elegance and class, contrasting with the sobriety of the steel sliver dialed version, and the strength and coolness of the black dialed one.
Here are the pictures I took at the SIHH:
The only two flaws I found are first the word " automatique " in the sub dial dedicated to the moon phase and the date... It is really not necessary and it spoils the dial, a bit. Please Jaeger-Lecoultre, if you should avoid unnecessary mentions...
The second flaw is the price... At circa 36 000 Euros, it is quite a sum and a very important gap between the steel black or silver versions and this guilloché blue enamel white gold version.
But with only 100 pieces, no doubt that this enameled MUT Moon will find its fans!
Best,
Nicolas
Comments:
Ano Nuevo January 19th, 2019-19:00
Video of the three blue enamel JLCs; MUT Moon at 2:05 mark. Thank you for the wonderful photos, Nico. Because these enamel guioché dials come alive with the slightest lighting change, here is a video which shows that real life aspect. Source: WatchboxReviews. (If this kind of link is not allowed, please delete thi...
amanico January 20th, 2019-01:17
No problem with the link, my friend. And thanks for this video. It is indeed very useful to see the different shades of blue.
Tim_M January 23rd, 2019-17:09
Oh dear, I apologize in advance for shooting that one vertical instead of landscape!
amanico January 23rd, 2019-23:42
You said everythnig what had to be said about these 3. Impressive.
remarque January 19th, 2019-19:13
Thank you, Nicolas, for your impressions. You have not yet shared any portions of your long anticipated conversation(s) with Ms Renier. Since it has been roughly one year since she has been CEO, I wonder, did she play any role in the watches unveiled this past week at SIHH2019? Clearly, the devel...
amanico January 20th, 2019-01:50
If my memory serves me well, Mrs Renier is at the helm pf Jaeger-Lecoultre since May 2018, so roughly 8 months. I had two conversations with her, one in December, and one at the SIHH. These have been more conversations than interviews. But I can tell you that: - Mrs Rénier is very passionate about Belle Horlogerie. - Mrs Renier listens, which is a very important virtue, in my opinion. - Yes, she wants to " save the soldier Duometre ", ...
cfn January 20th, 2019-20:52
You’ll find a live interview... ...with Ms. Renier in one of the three Hodinkee podcasts from SIHH, I believe it’s the first episode. In it she shares not only the highlights of her career so far but also some thoughts on what she sees as JLC’s strengths and future focus areas. Worth a ...
Poky January 20th, 2019-01:27
Writings on the dial I till don't understand why manufacturers do it. It is like writing on the bonnet of your car "Engine".
amanico January 20th, 2019-01:53
You know what? I love the way you put it. 100% agree. It reminds me the good old cars from the 80's. 16V, Turbo, 2.0, Sport and so on... ;)
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