Reaching for the stars before Villeret - the Montblanc Star Chrono GMT Perpetual Calendar
KMII
Montblanc itself - in spite of being 111 years old - is a fairly new hand at watch making. At least if you consider the original operation, prior to acquiring Minerva in 2006 (which dates back to 1858). The history started in 1997 and about 10 years later the iconic in house movement for the Nicolas Rieussec formed the next great leap.
The combination of complications was a serious statement of intent, as were individual details, such as the 43 faceted 'Montblanc cut' 0,55ct diamond gracing the crown. The six sided glacier design motif has been applied elsewhere, too, such as for the counterweight on the chronograph seconds hand, or on the GMT subdial.
At the same time, however, Montblanc was not averse to using high quality movements from outside for their high end pieces - a common practice in the industry up until very recently.
One such watch - the pinnacle of the pre-Villeret era I believe - has been the Star Chrono GMT Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100, launched in celebration of the brand's 100th Anniversary in 2006.
The combination of complications was a serious statement of intent, as were individual details, such as the 43 faceted 'Montblanc cut' 0,55ct diamond gracing the crown. The six sided glacier design motif has been applied elsewhere, too, such as for the counterweight on the chronograph seconds hand, or on the GMT subdial.
The watch is definitely a presence on the wrist, with its 43mm diameter (not wearing smaller, even if the lug design ensures it is a comfortable fit even on slimmer wrists) and gold / platinum weight (there were 100 each in WG, YG, RG and 3 in Pt).
The movement is nicely finished but not quite the masterpiece one got used to from the Villeret manufacture in the years since.
The watch makes for an interesting historical piece from Montblanc in my opinion, from an era we rarely discuss. In spite of its intent and definite appeal, events following its introduction, such as the acquisition of Minerva or the launch of the in-house chronograph movement have perhaps overshadowed what is quite a fine watch.
Any owners out here, or people handling one at SIHH 2006 or thereafter? Opinions?
Was definitely a pleasant surprise finding one, in NOS condition and researching its history subsequently.
Thanks for viewing!
Comments:
Alkiro1 November 4th, 2017-13:12
First time I see this timepiece. Thanks for the discovery and info about it my friend Best wishes Alkiro
KMII November 4th, 2017-15:38
Glad you found it interesting, Alkiro! Was by chance that I came across it - but then that's what our hobby is often like, I guess
Alkiro1 November 4th, 2017-15:44
Absolutely agree with you. And that’s really a pleasure to discover such timepieces almost everyday here 😉 Best wishes Alkiro
Alkiro1 November 5th, 2017-01:49
And it’s a true success my friend 😉 Best wishes Alkiro
mkt33 November 4th, 2017-18:02
one of the most interesting part of that particular watch is the patented crown locking mechanism (US patent # 7404669B2). It allows the owner to have two fold control function with the crown in the same axial position making it possible, for instance, to control a timezone function when the crown is rotated in the first direction, and a date setting ...
KMII November 5th, 2017-00:20
Thanks for adding this detail, Mike! Was not aware of it. Would you happen to also know who provided the movement for the watch? Have a great Sunday!
Marcus Hanke November 24th, 2017-03:28
The common suspect .... .... would be one of the huge variety of Dubois-Dépraz calendar moduls atop a 7750. Marcus
KMII November 25th, 2017-03:34
Thanks Marcus! A modular movement appears logical, given the thickness. I unfortunately did not take a movement shot to have one of you pinpoint the origin... Will check if the seller still has it, and try and take a shot
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