Chopard

The Chopard LUC Quattro Spirit 25 celebrates the 25th birthday of the eponymous manufacture, and it does it in an elegant way. 

Chopard decided to opt for the 40 mm case, which is perfect for this watch, as this size is consistent with the movement diameter, as we'll soon see. The height is good: 10, 30 mm, which doesn't ruin the natural class of this watch. The 7 mm crown is nicely integrated to the case, another nice detail. And the curvy side case, vertically brushed, is sumptuous. I also like these characteristic lugs a lot, short, curved, slightly angular.

Built from a 18 Kt rose gold plate, the dial is 100 % enamel: Enamel white grand feu for the dial itself, black enamel for the minute ring and indices. Silky, milky, deep, warm, it plays with the light and contrasts with the rose gold case in a delightful way. The other LUC signature is the minute fusée shaped hand, adding a touch of modernity to this classic environment. 

The movement, the Cal LUC 98-06L, associates a 8 days power reserve to an  instantaneous jumping hour, which is quite unique as I don't have any other jumping hour with such a long power reserve in mind, and which is a great idea because the jumping hour requires a lot of energy. With a diameter of 31, 8 mm, it doesn't look lost in the case, and its 4, 85 mm height is not taking too much space for a 8 days movement. 

An excellent initiative is to have put the power reserve indicator on the back side of the watch. It would have been a pity to ruin the purity of this sublime dial. 

Of course, it receives all the traditional finishings: Côtes de Genève, for the bridges, bevelings, and circular graining for the main plate, with an exquisite swan neck, and the Poinçon de Genève. 

Is everything perfect with this watch? 

- The major issue is the price. At a bit more than 40, 000 Euros / 47, 000 USD, the retail price is ambitious. I would have made it in steel, to substantially reduce the cost, but with all the mad prices we see nowadays, and considering that this watch is in rose gold, and with an enamel dial, plus the complication and the high level of finishings, we can debate it. 

- The other issue is more personal. I would have loved to have the choice between rose gold and a white metal ( gold or platinum ), here. Imagine it with the same white enamel grand feu, blue enamel indices and minute markers and a fusée shaped blued hand... Hmmmm? 

I wrote this article before Chopard unveiled the white gold version, with a black enamel dial... I am in heaven, even if the price is substantially higher... For a same metal,   that is quite illogical...

- I would not have limited it to 100 pieces. Maybe a bigger production would have lowered the costs, then the final price? The white gold is even worse, in terms of price: 

Still, all in all, an interesting AND seductive offer from Chopard, in my opinion. 

So, it is rose gold or white gold for you? 

Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,

Best.

Nicolas

  login to reply