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Wrist-testing the RD EasyDiver ChronoExcel

Ornatus-Mundi
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It is a considerably rare event to spot a Roger Dubuis timepiece in the wild, but I managed to catch one during this year's BaselWorld 2015: thanks to its owner, a fellow Purist, a red-tipped EasyDiver ChronoExcel  got into my hands, a sports watch with significant horological as well as design/manufacture content, both of which reveal themselves to the beholder only after an intense crush - this is exactly what I did (actually, I was that surprised that I forgot something very crucial - see below!):

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One of the most remarkable (and easily overlooked) features of the EasyDiver ChronoExcel is actually its case. Paying a homage to the Sympathie watch collection, it embodies ruggedness and elegance at the same time. Despite being sturdy and suitable for more demanding activities (in the realm of fine watches, that is), the case offers some remarkable refined details:

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With this particular watch, the red 'ears' draw attention. They are indeed functional parts and are extensions of the rubber seal between bezel and case.

Upon close look one finds the bezel inserts - made of rubber! - are totally flush with the steel bezel frame ring. Even the black 'arrows' are rubber inserts. Remarkable that even after several years of daily use the rubber seems largely unaffected by wear & tear, something I would not take for granted even for supposedly much sturdier materials:

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Before I can continue - a confession! I was such mesmerised (and surprised, but more on this further down!) by this watch that I committed a PuristS' cardinal sin: I totally missed out on taking a movement shot! Please don't tell the management... ;-)

Thankfully, I could resort to Anthony's and Ming's images! So here it is in all its glory: RD's fantastic Cal. RD78 (a pity that this is not used anymore as extensively as they sued to!) with all its delicacies: classical horizontal clutch chronograph with (capped!) column wheel, micro rotor-powered automatic winding system and finally the Poinçon de Genève, the seal which attests to outstanding craftsmanship and provenance:

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Did you note the rubber inserts in the back bezel as well?

In the following I would like the share with your some of the outstanding details (images: Anthony & Ming); escapement assembly...

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... miro rotor (note its upper bearing doubling as chronograph bridge)... 

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... and finally the chronograph system:

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The chronograph pusher feel took me a bit by surprise, precise with well defined operation points, and yet smooth at the same time. Someone must have paid attention here.

But back to the topic of the review, the wrist-fell & -presence of the ChronoExcel. For this, a look first on the buckle:

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Quite a bold one with the RD EasyDiver logo to match the rubber seal beneath the bezel. The strap is made of rubber as well, and has to be cut to size for optimal fit to the owner's wrist. And there we are:

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Look, while I missed the movement shots I at least was properly dressed for this watch ;-):

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The surprising discovers (at least for me!) was how well this 46mm 'beast' fits to modestly dimensioned wrists. Actually, RD's watch designers must have taken great care in defining the dimensions of the various components, like case, bezel, lugs etc., to come up with something like a magic formula.

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Otherwise, could such a view be coincidence?

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So, in order to arrive at a conclusion: I learned, like often if I try a new watch, something about watches and myself. Even oversized timepieces can make sense if the right (design) choices are made like in this case (pun intended). 

With the EasyDiver ChronoExcel, RD combined an outstanding and very appealing movement with a vivid, sappy enclosure. One can debate on the utility of fine sport watches, but I think one cannot negate the observation that RD has done an excellent job here.

For myself, I tend to repudiate this type of watches. Having enjoyed this piece on my wrist, and monitoring my own feelings, I can only conclude that I should not let myself be driven too much by my scientific (part of) self. 

For this lesson I am thankful. And dare I say: I love this watch!

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For more please read Ming's and Anthony's in-dept report (click here! ) - this is also where the movement images were taken from!

Thanks for reading,
Magnus

P.S.: Thanks to Stefan (stere) for lending me your fantastic piece!

 
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-04-13 10:57:45

Comments:
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foversta April 11th, 2015-10:58
Thanks a lot for this great review! This is really a special watch and to be honest with you, I was not seduced by it when it was introduced. With time, I have started to understand it better and of course, who can resist to the charm of the superlative RD78 movement? Thanks for this great ... 
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Ornatus-Mundi April 13th, 2015-00:06
"the charm of the superlative RD78 movement" - exactly! An outstanding (and very pretty!) movement packed into a case which is 'sporty' - but yet has a lot of subtle refinements one would not necessarily expect with a sports watch. This is the secret of the EasyDiver, and - as you correctly said - it take some... 
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stere April 11th, 2015-14:42
it looks amazing on your wrist... ...and I will make some pictures of the movement later.... Thanks for your great review and your emotions. btw...I also forgot to try your PG-watch at the same moment... stere
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Ornatus-Mundi April 13th, 2015-00:07
I am looking forward to your pics, Stefan, ... I recall the cap on top the column wheel is mirror polished and not blued? Am I correct? Best, Magnus
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stere April 13th, 2015-07:31
I dig a little bit in archives... ...and found some Images of the movement :-) Hope you enjoy: stere ... 
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Ornatus-Mundi April 13th, 2015-10:56
Really good - and a very interesting and unusual layout... of the chronograph gears and levers! The more you look, the more you know, the more you are amazed! Thanks a lot, Magnus
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jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) April 13th, 2015-05:05
What a beautiful RD! The movement finishing is to die for! I admire such watches - sporty with rubber straps yet so elegant and finely finished. Thanks for sharing! Cheers Robin
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kolosstt April 13th, 2015-21:49
Wonderful review Enjoyed reading and watching your photos. I like the version with red better than the black one. Was surprised though, since you write something about nearly daily wearer yet the buckle looked like new. Is the red logo only a print?
Angelitojn April 15th, 2015-01:06
One of the best diver i have in my box. This is my Orange.. Fantastic watch and caliber incredible beauty !! ... 
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Ornatus-Mundi April 15th, 2015-06:20
I am not aware of this fantastic piece... could you show us more? The bezel looks particularly tasty. Thanks, Magnus
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Kong
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Roger Dubuis - The 2014 Hommage Collection

Kong
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Roger Dubuis founded his manufactured in 1995, and created watches as tribute to his teachers and friends whom had helped him during his journey of learning the art of watchmaking. Thus the name 'Hommage'. This year, a new 'Hommage Series' in honour of Mr Roger Dubuis is created by a new generation at Roger Dubuis Maison. Still featuring the same classic design and traditional watchmaking but with a bold refinement in aesthetic and all Poinon de Genve certified.


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